The Anchor and Hope

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 21 reviews

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36 The Cut,
Waterloo,
London,
SE1 8LP

0871 971 6507
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byPru Engel10/11/2010
Consistently rated as one of the best gastropubs in London, The Anchor and Hope continues to impress with top-class gastro grub and a delightful dose of British charm.

The Venue
The Cut has a decent offering of pubs and eateries, providing more than a few good reasons to venture south of the river and a bit further than the Southbank. The Anchor and Hope is one of the best, offering a haven for gourmands, wine-lovers and British pub aficionados. It’s only small, sitting on a corner spot on the main drag with a plain black and unassuming facade, and a smattering of tables spilling out onto the footpath. Inside, the plum walls, rustic tables and scrawled chalkboards contribute to the relaxed pub decor – with a heavy curtain dividing the dining and drinking areas by night and opening up the cosy area by day. It’s a simple, unaffected backdrop for the amazing food.

The Atmosphere
Comfy and friendly, The Anchor and Hope attracts a laidback after-work crowd and is always teeming with keen diners. The tables are snugly placed and if you’re lucky enough to bag one (it’s competitive and there are no reservations, so be prepared to wait), you may find yourself sharing it with other punters. The close proximity to the theatres on the Cut means it’s even busier just before the curtain goes up. Staff, thankfully, are keenly attentive and knowledgeable with speedy and amicable service at the ready.

The Food
Famed for its foodie credentials (with chef connections to both The Eagle and St. John), The Anchor and Hope delivers seasonal, gourmet British fare with an exciting menu that changes daily. Expect lip-smacking cuts of meat, unique game dishes and some delectable seafood – all delivered with flair and panache. You won’t find ordinary bangers and mash or fish and chips here – think sophisticated dishes like braised beef shin with celeriac mash, roast grouse, English lop (rabbit), nettle soup with Spanish ham and buttered almonds, or slow-baked Scottish veal.

Prepare for a bit of work if you order the whole Cornish crab - it comes in the shell with pliers on the side, and it is fresh and meaty with creamy mayo on the side for dipping. Utterly delicious. Meat joints always come perfectly cooked and are robust with flavour, and the fish is always superb – a roasted sea bass flakes gently off the bone and the flavour of the soft, mild flesh is punctuated with salty olives, beet and a side of light crème fraiche. You may also find roast skate in a herby broth, grilled plaice or mussels mariniere – the ever-changing menu is packed with delightful surprises. If slow cooking leaves your mouth watering, sometimes you can get a seven-hour lamb or veal shoulder for around the £65 mark (serving ‘fiveish’). Starters are usually priced from £5 and mains hover around the £10-£15, which is excellent value for this quality of food.

Desserts are also amazing value, priced from around £4, for treats like a mini chocolate pot, plum and pistachio trifle or a zingy stem ginger ice cream.

The Drink
With an interesting wine list that stands up to the food on offer, there are quite a few drops to choose from. Start with a pear and prosecco fizz (£4.60) – or whatever the aperitif of the day is, sometimes it’s elderflower fizz - and follow up with something like the peppery Languedoc red Mas des Chimeres Cuvee Marie et Joseph 2008. On tap, there is a decent choice too – Staropramen and Carlsberg sit alongside the like of Hobgoblin and Bombardier. Not to be outdone, cocktails like a Sidecar and Margarita start from £5.50 and there are decent sherries and dessert wines.

The Last Word
Decent, honest food in pleasurable surroundings – The Anchor and Hope has rightly earned its place amongst London’s best gastropubs, if you can grab a table that is.
The Anchor and Hope has been reviewed by 21 users

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