If you’re in Soho and looking for a sexy drinking den with an upmarket twist then The Apartment, located on the top floor of Kettner’s, hits the spot. Champagne and pudding, anyone?

The Venue
Kettner’s has been a mainstay of the Soho scene for well over 100 years, but after a high profile refurbishment it was thrust back into the limelight. Encompassing a restaurant, pudding bar, Champagne bar and upstairs drinking den, alongside several private dining rooms, the spacious building has a lot to offer.

A short walk from Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Road tubes, just off Charing Cross Road, sits Kettner’s – a building that doesn’t catch the eye until you’re practically on top of it. Stepping through the heavy glass doors you’ll be drawn into its glamorous embrace. Marble flooring, chandeliers and an attractive hostess create an instant impression. To the right you’ll glimpse the beautiful restaurant, just beyond the white grand piano. To the left sits the Champagne bar, a darker, more brooding affair with flashes of opulence, but it is up the winding staircase where you’ll find The Apartment.

Stepping out of the light corridor into The Apartment you’ll be welcomed into its dark hub. Where the rest of Kettner’s is all about opulent touches, here it’s more eclectic, more relaxed, more Soho. That’s not to say it loses its elegance, rather the kitsch nature of the decorative touches makes this an ideal spot for a late-night tipple. The furnishings are eclectic, with no real sense or meaning to the array of different pieces strewn about, although therein lies its charm. The seating alone comprises a large wicker chair in the corner, a blue chaise longe, surprisingly comfortable sunken tan leather seats, grey sofas, a black leather armchair, and dining room style pale blue studded chairs. They’re arranged around everything from low wooden tables to round glass ones and even a decorative square glass table with a chessboard design, each suited to couples or groups. The clever spacing and random collection of furnishings grouped together in small sections of the large space means you’ll feel like you have your own little area, even though the room is devoid of any divide.

Once you’ve taken in the hodgepodge of furnishings, your eyes will continue to wander and you’ll notice more design touches. The wooden floor is covered with a heavy patterned rug that adds warmth to the otherwise cold flooring, the white ceiling is covered in a collection of octagonal and square shapes and the walls are made up of dark wooden panelling. Heavy twirling metal candelabras, an old gramophone painted red and even an old style phone sat on a table beside threadbare theatre books continuously grab the imagination. A bar up here would spoil the ambience, so a large table covered with gleaming bottles of spirits and Champagne, various fresh garnishes and all the instruments you need to create cocktails replaces the traditional bar. It feels like the world’s best living room - were you rich with an exceptional eye for kitsch interior design.

The Atmosphere
Kettner’s hums with the sound of conversation, emitted from the bar and dining room, just above the beautiful tones of the grand piano. Upstairs in The Apartment there’s a different ambience that’s hard to put your finger on. Earlier in the evening the tones of conversation are hushed, although as the night wears on the decibel levels rise and the atmosphere takes on more of a traditional bar vibe. However, the friendly, attentive table service insistently reminds you that you’re not in just another Soho bar.

Open until 1am, this is the ideal spot to visit late at night when you want to sink into a comfortable chair and sip on Champagne whilst the haze of Soho melts away just below the windows. Brilliantly, you can select food and drink from the menu of any of the spaces of Kettner’s. It’s highly recommended that you sip a Champagne cocktail whilst contemplating which of the desserts of the pudding bar you wish to sample. If you’re heading along with girlfriends then it’s sure to impress.

The Food
Although you can order food from the Kettner’s restaurant, The Apartment does have its own menu consisting of smaller bar food, although the prices are on the high side for what you get. From olives and pickled vegetables (£4) if you just want a snack to more substantial tartines, salads and main plates (£8-£16), it caters to a range of appetites.

If you’re feeling peckish then the Kettner’s burger (£8) may appeal. However, given the price point, you’ll receive just a burger with no chips, plainly presented on an almost dull white ceramic plate. Although it’s bar food, the plain presentation given the high price may disappoint. The patty itself is thick and cooked so it’s pink in the middle and is well balanced given the size of the rather heavily toasted, dry bun, but it’s a little too crumbly and could do with being of a meatier consistency. The salad comes presented on the side so you can build your burger as you wish. It’s fresh and generous – red onion rings, crisp iceberg lettuce, a slice of gherkin and large slices of beef tomatoes work well to add a next textural crunch to the burger and the optional tomato ketchup and homemade mayonnaise, which is more of a dressing, add much-needed moisture.

The Peasant’s salad fares better. A generous bowl filled with lettuce leaves, egg, duck, croutons, celery and sundried tomatoes is reasonably priced at £8 for a filling, balanced salad. It’s well presented and looks fresh and appetising. However, there’s not a huge amount of duck – served as slivers – and it would be more impressive if the duck was served warm, rather than the whole salad coming out cold. That said, it provides a good meal if you’re looking to line the stomach before indulging in the Champagne cocktails.

The real selling point of Kettner’s is the amazing pudding bar. Even if you’re not dining in the restaurant downstairs, you can request a dessert from the pudding menu. Although you can peruse the menu in The Apartment and have it brought up to you, it’s far more appealing to go down and visit the table laden with desserts yourself. A treat for the eyes, you’re sure to be overwhelmed by all the colours, shapes and sizes of the desserts. Choose what you want and head back upstairs where they’ll be brought up to you. Highly recommended are the meringues (£7). A huge portion that’s strictly for those with a sweet tooth comes presented on attractive glass plates with a variety of red fruits to garnish and a strawberry compote. The cutting sweetness of the husky meringue fills the mouth, counteracted well by the slight acidity of the cranberries and strawberries. From the soft creamy component of the meringue through to the delightful crunch below, each mouthful is sweet, slightly powdery and delicious. However, if sugar isn’t your thing you may be overwhelmed by the sheer portion size.

If you prefer your desserts to be more demure then daily specials like the cheesecake (£6) atop a biscuit base will appeal. The cheesecake is unusual at first bite with a thick, almost solid consistency without the sickly sweetness that often accompanies the dish. The biscuit base is just that – a flat biscuit and it’s an unusual way to present the dessert. However, after a couple of bites you’ll come round to the creamy vanilla flavour that is easy to eat in its subtlety. Also served with red berries as a garnish, they provide a needed acidic sweetness to counteract the simple flavours of the cake.

Highly recommended is the Poires Belle Helene (£7) – poached pears with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream. Stunningly presented, the lightly poached pear remains intact at the top, sliced down the sides to reveal a partially hidden scoop of vanilla ice cream sat atop a biscuit base inside. Poured over the top is lashings of dark chocolate sauce. The beautiful dish demands to be eaten. Slicing through the pear with a touch of the spoon, through the soft, melting ice cream to the crunch of the biscuit base the tactile nature of the pudding starts the experience that runs through to each mouthful. The pear is delicate, subtly sweet and soft. It mixes well with the rich, warm and slightly gooey chocolate sauce that’s counteracted by the shock of the cold, creamy ice cream. The biscuit can’t really be tasted but provides a little crunch that balances the softness of the pear and ice cream. A cinnamon aftertaste finishes off each mouthful.

The Drink
There is a small but well formed drinks menu at The Apartment. The wine choice encompasses just four whites and four reds, ranging in price from £7.25 for a glass (£27 a bottle) of the 2007 Saint Veran to £46 for a bottle of 2005 Gigondas. There are also a few bottles of beer, including the Champagne brewed Kasteel Cru and Kasteel Cru Rose for £4.50.

Cocktails are clearly popular, although there are only a handful on the menu. The Champagne cocktails come in at £9.75 for classics like the Kir Royal to the more unusual Fraise Royal (strawberry puree and fraise de bois topped with Champagne). Well presented in a large Champagne flute, the pink colour of the cocktail is offset by the strawberry garnish. The flavour of the Champagne is clearly evident, the strawberry undertone not overpowering it, rather complementing the almost sweet taste of the drink.

If you’re not a fan of Champagne cocktails then a handful of classics (£8.50) adourn the facing page of the small menu. The mojito is well mixed and nicely presented with the right balance of ‘garden’ although it is quite icy. The mint julep comes with a warning that it’s strong and it certainly delivers. The flavour of the bourbon is clearly evident but the flavour is smooth rather than cutting. The mint and sugar balance is pretty much spot on, and the well mixed ingredients manage to curtail the strong alcoholic taste of the bourbon and bring a delicate sweetness and strong aftertaste of mint.

The Last Word
Kettner’s has been thrust back into the public eye and has a lot to offer. The Apartment adds depth to this glamorous venue and provides an ideal late night hideaway if you want to avoid some of Soho’s less salubrious drinking dens.

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