The ViewLondon Review
A stone’s throw from Clapham South station, unfortunately positioned opposite a Shell Garage, stands this oasis in the midst of kebab shops and newsagents. The Avalon is a beautiful gastropub that has retained a warmth of character; it’s worth the trek for anyone who lives north of the river.The VenueThe Avalon is a short stroll from Clapham South, along a road filled with chicken shops. Despite its unfortunate positioning opposite a Shell Garage, the beautiful pub wows. The clever positioning of large plants in front of a sizeable front terrace partially hides the view of the main road and garage, putting a barrier between you and the reality of what’s just outside. Plenty of benches and sprawling overhead black canopes jutting from the side of the attractive brick building all add to the ambience.
Stepping inside, you can’t help but be impressed. It so easily could have been try-hard, instead the opulent touches create an impression of an upmarket pub with heart. The sprawling bar area centres around a central, gently curving bar that’s made of traditional heavy dark wood with high stools lined the whole way around it. An eclectic mix of seating from traditional pub tables and chairs to opulent low sofa areas creates a warm appeal for groups to settle in for the evening. The greens and browns that make up the bulk of the colourscheme put you back in touch with nature, helped along by a large stag’s head jutting from the far wall. Spanning the length of a long exterior wall is a huge painting Sistine Chapel style, depicting beautiful figures and scenes to get the imagination racing.
Towards the back of the space, past a small reception desk where they check your booking, resides the dining area. Still keeping with its pub heart, it does have a cleaner look more fitting for a restaurant. Cream ceramic brick tiled walls line the room with random images inlaid into it depicting everything from railways to butterflies. A real feature is a huge trellised mirror that takes up the entire back wall, creating a light feeling of space. The seating is comfortable and keeps to pub staples of traditional heavy wooden tables and leather-bound chairs in the centre of the room to leather sofas spanning the periphery if you want to sink in for the evening. The real piece de resistance of this space are two huge chandelier-style lights inset into ceiling skylights. It adds that final piece of glamour that befits the dining room well.
Finally, comes the back garden, reached through a door to the back of the dining area, only open in the summer months (from around April). The large garden doesn’t overlook a garage like the front terrace and consists of bench seating ideal for when the weather heats up.
The AtmosphereThe Avalon is a thriving pub and in the summer the sounds of drinkers sat outside enjoying an alfresco drink is a pleasant greeting. The clientele consists mainly of young local workers and residents letting the stresses of the working week melt away. The chatter is palpable but not so loud that you can’t hear yourself think and there’s an air of friendliness to the space that extends from the pub’s main area through to the dining room, where the emphasis is more on couples or friends cosying up for a tete-a-tete. Its outdoor areas attract a large contingent of sun worshippers and people desperate to enjoy the warmth whilst they can, before the inevitable rain moves in once again. In the summer, there’s almost a holiday atmosphere to the pub.
The staff are particularly friendly and the service is efficient. The waiting staff in the dining area know the menu well and confidently offer recommendations that you won’t be disappointed with.
The FoodThe food is good value for the quality, steering clear of the restaurant prices that many pubs like this swing towards. Starters range from £6-£7 for excellent quality, well put together and presented dishes. Mains average at the £10-£14 mark for hefty portions of surprisingly delicate, well cooked food whilst desserts come in at an average £5.
For starters, the Avalon fish soup with rouille and crostini (£6.50) is an excellent dish, presented with three plump, perfectly cooked mussels in the centre. The red soup has a slight tomato undertone that brings out the white fish flavours such as the delicate saltiness of haddock. The rouille is rich and delicate although it does make the crostini go slightly soggy underneath. Alternatively, if you want a light starter then the peppered venison carpaccio, rocket, shaved parmesan and truffle aioli (£7) is right on the money. The thinly sliced carpaccio is stunningly presented and has a rich flavour that’s surprisingly light on the stomach with a pleasant peppery aftertaste. Generous helpings of shaved hard parmesan adds tang to each mouthful and it’s rounded off by the fresh flavours of rocket.
For mains, ox cheeks with baby vegetables and parsnip puree (£12) is an exquisite dish that’s cheap for the portion size and quality. A generous helping of tender ox cheeks melt in the mouth and come apart with the gentlest touch of a fork. They offer a deeply rich, meaty flavour that dominates the dish but is lightened by the sweetness of the parsley puree. A simple helping of fresh, crunchy baby vegetables is aided by a side of carrots (£2.75), which are cooked in butter for a delightful buttery aftertaste. However, the spinach (£2.75) is too bitter and sits in a watery liquid that makes it a little soggy.
Highly recommended are Welsh lamb cutlets with a paloise sauce (£14.50) from the grill menu. Three large cutlets are presented with a minimal ream of fat running down the outer edge. Well cooked and perfectly pink in the middle, the lamb tears away from the bone with ease and has a wonderful rich, almost sweet flavour that’s a delight for the tastebuds. The creamy paloise sauce has the consistency and strong flavours of bearnaise but the mint cuts through to make it cleaner on the palate, an ideal accompaniment to the lamb. A large portion of salad, including crisp, fresh rocket and thin slices of red onion with large pieces of tomato add a fresh flavour to the dish that rounds it off well. Mashed potato (£2.75) on the side isn’t as creamy as it could be, but does allow the lamb and paloise to shine whilst providing a nice, smooth texture to each mouthful.
Desserts don’t disappoint, either. The baked vanilla cheesecake with rhubarb compote (£5) is a thick, hefty slice of cheesecake with a strong, creamy vanilla flavour and a dense consistency that’s a little heavy. The rhubarb comes in a small side dish and is green in colour rather than the artificial pink you often get. The slightly stringy texture of the rhubarb is actually enjoyable, making it seem homemade rather than processed. The tart sweetness isn’t overpowering and simply highlights the creaminess of the cheesecake. Also well thought out is the sticky toffee pudding with stem ginger ice cream (£4.50) that comes as a huge slab of warm gooey pudding with a dollop of ice cream on top that starts to melt and run down the sides, adding moisture. Rather than a bland vanilla ice cream accompaniment, the unusual ginger flavour works in perfect tandem with the light toffee sponge cake. Delicious.
The DrinkThere’s an excellent wine list at the Avalon, which covers a large selection of bottles well described and sectioned on the menu with tasting notes to aid your choice and recommendations for what bottles go with which dishes. If you’re still stuck then the knowledgeable staff can offer good recommendations. Bottles range from £12.95-£38, covering all budgets, and there are some sparkling varieties also on offer for £19.95-£130. If you’re really watching the pennies then many of the bottles are also available by the glass and even by the carafe. Highly recommended is one of their most popular bottles False Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2008 for £18. Extremely easy to drink, it has notes of gooseberry with a grassy finish that goes well with most of the dishes. It’s well priced for the quality.
It’s also recommended that you try an inexpensive dessert wine or port with your pudding. The Clos du Portail, Graves Superieurs, France 2005 for £3.95 is a delightfully sweet wine that isn’t too sickly and matches the sweeter puddings well. Alternatively, the Wiese and Krohn Ambassador Ruby NV, Douro, Portugal port for £3.20 has a heavier tone that works with the creaminess of the cheesecake.
If you’re just coming here to drink then there is a good selection of cocktails for £6.50 for drinks like the pear mojito or strawberry caprioska for a twist on the originals. There’s also an excellent selection of spirits with lots of premiums available, far better than the average pub. Naturally there’s a good choice of draught beer including Amstel, Kronenbourg, Fosters and Guinness.
The Last WordThe Avalon has given anyone who lives north of the river an excuse to hop on the Northern line and make the trek to South Clapham. This stunning pub is a real destination venue.
The Avalon has been reviewed by 23 users