Rising from the ashes of a local gastro pub with a fairly mixed reputation, The Bickley has retained its forebear's name, but little else, to create a new restaurant with ambitious principles and an impressive commitment to quality.

The Venue
For the steady stream of commuters emanating from nearby Chislehurst station, the Bickley must be something of a fixture. Indeed, it is easy to imagine the various incarnations that have occupied this large and imposing pile since commuting was an equestrian affair. Outwardly, The Bickley is in keeping with the area, which exudes an air of freshly minted affluence – the recent renovation presenting a slick and classy fascia to the new venture.

It would be distracting to make too much of the fact that the Bickley used to be a pub; though it is discernable still in the layout and atmosphere of the place, with a large bar dominating first impressions. This pedigree though is a palpably good thing – the welcome is warm and convivial, with the bar serving as a homely and informal stop gap before being seated to eat. From the bar, the view of the main room bustles with esoteric fixtures and furniture, like the looming Boar’s Head or the whimsical mini-greenhouse that covers a carefully sourced selection of British cheeses.

Indeed, the new proprietors are at pains to sever ties with the past; creating an environment that is by turns creative and plush. This is a bold move for a restaurant that must rely significantly on local custom, but it lends the Bickley the air of a ‘destination’ which is often lacking in suburban eateries.

In contrast to the informal seating at, and around, the bar, the main dining room has a more opulent air, with ruched fabric on the walls and subdued lighting.

The Atmosphere
Throughout the experience of The Bickley, a pleasant sort of contradiction is apparent. This is a venue with grand plans and ideals, but one that is grounded by its local clientele and the eager, young staff, many of whom have been retained though the transition from boozer to restaurant. It is clearly refreshing for them to be serving food rather than endless pints, and, despite the occasional naivety, their enthusiasm, honesty and interest in what they are doing is infectious. This, along with the opportunity to eat wherever you choose, cultivates a relaxed and informal air.

It would be easy for the Bickley to feel too big for its boots; but clever and subtle conceits throughout make sure that this is not the case. There is the décor, the openness of the service, but also a realistic and competitive approach to serving good food.

The Food
The first ‘taste’ of The Bickley’s food can be had at the bar where, if you aren’t opting for ‘belt and braces’ dining, tantalising boards of charcuterie and cheese can be assembled at your instruction. The cheese in particular is an exciting proposition – with a good spectrum of artisanal British varieties served in generous portions. For £8.95, the charcuterie board is huge; great value as well as meticulously selected and presented.

Another clever gambit is the ‘hot lunch’ option – a robust and hearty daily special that is housed, and served at the bar. For lunchtime diners, there is also a £15 menu which offers two courses of imaginative twists on gastro-pub favourites, including their excellent 28-day hung steaks.

This notion encapsulates the menu at the Bickley – the idea that the food is simultaneously familiar, but with the ‘added something’ that comes from the care and attention of the kitchen, expert techniques or imaginative and exciting ingredients. This approach is typified by dishes like the succulent salt and pepper squid with chorizo and chilli & lemon crème fraîche, or the roast rump of lamb, emboldened by couscous, braising liquor, garlic, spinach and yoghurt.

The a la carte menu isn't cheap for somewhere in suburbia, with starters averaging at £7 and mains at around £13, but value for money is excellent – ensured through top notch ingredients and faultless cooking. The detailed and delectable steak menu, encapsulating onglets at £15 to Chateuabriands for two at £50, features meat that is hung and respectfully cooked, then served with thrice cooked chips and choice of sauce. Café de Paris butter is recommended – the huge number of ingredients is explained, but easily forgotten in the enjoyment of eating it.

Indulgent deserts maintain the high standards throughout the menu along with another outing for that impressive cheeseboard.

The Drink
The personal enthusiasm of the operations manager at The Bickley has shaped a wine list which is simultaneously epic and down to earth. Organised by characteristics, the list is easily navigated and yields some unusual gems, well described and realistically priced. Whilst the scope for discovery on the wine list is a huge strength, this is not at the expense of other drinks – The Bickley stocks beers which include Estrella Damm Inedit, created by the chef at El Bulli specifically to accompany food, as well as an imaginative cocktail list.

The Last Word
The Bickley has set the bar very high for itself and if its standards can be maintained should be beloved of local diners and visitors alike.

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