A local pub for local people might sound like something out of The League of Gentlemen, but fortunately at The Bird in Hand you won’t encounter any oddball characters. What you will find is a very friendly pub on a sleepy residential street in West Kensington, doing a sterling job of providing the immediate community with a place to socialise.

The Venue
Very much a local’s pub, the Bird in Hand is a modern conversion of what used to a no-nonsense old man’s pub. Nothing new there then, but the one thing the pub hasn’t done is alienate the old-timers – you will see a few of them holed up in one corner of the open-plan room.

Seating, an assortment of functional wooden tables and chairs, is plentiful and there are nice touches around the box-shaped room like the monochrome floral-print wallpaper and the cute candle holders that sit on each table come dusk.

The Atmosphere
Groups of thirtysomething friends, couples and grey-haired drinkers all mingle quite happily at The Bird in Hand. Staff are smiley, helpful and generally unfussy in their service, something which is a blessing if you just want a bit of privacy during your dinner.

The Food
A good standard of food arrives from the kitchen with an audible ping (thankfully it's not from a microwave) to signal that it’s ready. The menu changes daily and it’s short and to the point: 3 starters, around 6 mains and 3 puddings make up the selection.

For an unassuming pub, the food has a fair bit of ambition. A mushroom bruschetta starter (£5.25) combines a large, earthy Portobello mushroom with the gooey intensity of melted stilton, the sweetness of poached pear and the tart tang from a slick of balsamic vinegar. All in all it’s a lovely marriage of contrasting yet complementary flavours. Alternatively, a deep fried wedge of brie (£5.25) covered in bread crumbs is served on top of peppery rocket, with a sticky and sweet cranberry coulis and pine nuts to add extra layers to the complexity of the dish.

Mains continue to show a desire to impress although prices are in danger of veering into those commanded by top gastropubs or even restaurants. The rack of lamb (£15.25) is actually two plump and juicy chops that are completely coated with sesame seeds. There’s a slight hint of horseradish – not mentioned on the menu – which may well be the sticky substance that allows the sesame seeds to stud the lamb. The lamb is medium rare, crimson coloured at its centre, and it is served with slightly-too-hard roasted potato wedges and a pulpy mushroom and artichoke reduction. A ceramic bowl of acrid mint sauce evokes childhood memories, and that’s a good thing on this occasion. Across the table, a pork loin is more than adequate if unspectacular. The highlight of this dish is the gravy with a hint of cinnamon. In addition a medley of vegetables is unseasoned and would benefit from a little butter and some salt and pepper.

Onto desserts and the banana terrine (£5.75) offers a tightly packed blend of crushed ripe banana. The ice cream and rum syrup help to make it a simple but highly pleasurable dish.

The Drink
Stella, Becks Vier, San Miguel are amongst the pumps and there are a couple of ales, too. Wine is reasonably priced and offers some decent value, for example the Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, at around £16, is a lively, vibrant red that’s well worth the money.

The Last Word
Performing the role of the local pub admirably well, The Bird in Hand offers residents of a sleepy, residential part of West London the chance to socialise in the most British of institutions – the pub. And with decent food and plenty of events and entertainment – including a keenly contested Sunday night quiz – if you live in the area you really should show your support by popping in for a drink.

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