The Bishop

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 3 reviews

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25 Lordship Lane,
Dulwich,
London,
SE22 8EW

0871 971 5090
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byAnika Torruella28/05/2009
An even mix of new mothers, girlfriends, dog owners and young lovers fill this trendy yet casual pub during the day, which turns over rather quickly to crowds of fashionistas and yuppies in the evenings. Spacious booths, well thought out vegetarian offerings and unpretentious service keep both coming back for more.

The Venue
Nestled among the pram pushers of East Dulwich, The Bishop comes into view a few feet from the vale of Goose Green, declaring its presence with wide windows and a heavy iron sign with a chess piece silhouette.

In the front room, mossy suede and cherry-coloured leather stools sit alongside the dark wooden bar. The bar is well lit with modern, brightly coloured pendant lamps. Someone cared enough to keep the chess theme going with rooks, pawns and its namesake in the form of weighty candles. A collection of frameless mirrors and beer advertisements keep the decor hip and clean. Snag one of the highly favoured, elevated window seats to watch the action outside (you may have to share with Clarence the hunting dog sunning himself in the window) or squeeze mates into one of the roomy six-seater booths with blonde leather replacing the previous, well-loved covers.

If you want to hear modern jazz, blues and throbbing rock, you'd better scrounge around for a table in the back where there's a screen on match days and a subdued library mural that almost feels like the real thing. The slender patio to the rear is more cramped than beckoning but generous trestles on the front pavement make up for the lack of sunlit real estate.

The Atmosphere
During the day, neither the patrons nor the service at The Bishop is in a hurry. Maybe it’s the free WiFi, but if you've come to do a spot of work, read the paper or blog your brain out, the servers will leave you in peace with a liberal glass of wine or a frothy glass of beer. However, you don't have a prayer of getting anything done Thursday through Sunday after 6pm when the front area is standing room only. Young, well-heeled ladies and fashionable lads in tight jeans flock to this watering hole to eye up the opposite sex and perhaps attempt a brazen chat up.

The Food
The short printed menu of pub standards doesn't disappoint. The fish and pea pie is hearty, flecked with butter and flaky salmon, and the steak, mushroom and stilton version comes with a tiny ewer of rich gravy. However, it's the vegetarian selection that really impresses.

The homemade Caerphilly and leek ‘hotdogs’ melt in your mouth. They are delicious and come piled high with creamy onions. The aubergine burger offers both spicy and sweet flavors (though the cut needs to be more generous) and the thick slice of feta adds just enough salt to enliven the vegetable. The pumpkin chilli, while earthy in flavor, is a bit too thin to really earn the name chilli. You don't have to invest ten quid if you want a bite, small plates include battered salmon fingers and chilli chicken wings, which are both greasily crisp, and the selection of hot sandwiches are filling and well crafted.

Eggs can be had for brunch on Sunday at The Bishop before 1pm and after that a selection of roasts are on offer (get there early because they sell out).

The Drink
Draught selections at The Bishop include few surprises - Erdinger, Guiness Extra Cold, Peroni and Budvar are the staples with Aspalls cider for the adventurous. A malty Ruddles Country may be found on the real ale cask alongside guests like Abbot Ale or Weasel Beer. Bottled beers include more subtle choices: American Sierra Nevada, Brooklyn Lager, German Little Creatures, Flemish Ducal, Vedett and Floris Passion (a tart little summer gem with passion fruit).

In a refreshing twist, the house white, red and rose wines can be had by the glass from a cask as well, though they are not much to write home about. The white is heavy on lime flavours, sweet green apple and cut grass, while the red has the fruity tannins of a young wine - either will fill a glass for three quid.

The Last Word
During the week, you'll be tempted to make The Bishop your new surrogate living room and at the weekend it could easily become a destination to see and be seen if you're trendy enough. However, the weekend crush and pounding rock will deter more casual drinkers and conversation of any sort.
The Bishop has been reviewed by 3 users
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