Formerly The Lavender, this old Victorian pub has been reborn as The Black Dog. The beer is still good but you shouldn’t leave without trying the food, too.

The Venue
Rustic elegance and traditions mix successfully at The Black Dog. The wooden floor and furniture is matched with tiles, painted glass and an array of vintage and industrial brass chandeliers, while the open plan kitchen, with its tempting display of pork pies and Scotch eggs, adds an informal element to the space. There are benches outside, a small beer garden at the back and large windows that look out towards a small park. Unfortunately the park is quite unkempt but it’s full of surprises – you may even catch a few alpacas from nearby Vauxhall City Farm on their exercise rounds.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere is quite subdued and nicely relaxed. The clientele consists of a few locals and a large number of workers from the many offices nearby. However, this is not the City – there are some suits but also casually dressed charity and government workers. Although it’s closed to the public on weekends, The Black Dog is available for private hire for no hire fee.

The Food
The menu sticks to two key principles, fresh seasonal ingredients and quick response to customer demand. The daily changing menu is constantly adjusted to reflect what people like and what the market (as well as the local butcher and fishmonger) offers, with the ultimate aim of keeping prices down. The food itself is uncomplicated and excellently prepared. From the starters (£4 - £6), the devilled whitebait is wonderfully crispy although a tad too salty. The Sicilian Nocellara olives are unpickled and fresh, but the accompanying tower of toasted bread could do with some olive oil on the side.

The mains (£8.50 - £14) are more elaborate in ingredients and preparation. The monkfish cheek may be a bit too chewy for some but it’s served on a very good salad of samphire, pine nuts, shaved fennel and orange. The handmade soft gnocchi could do with being boiled one extra minute but the sauce, with sage and shiitake mushrooms and, for once, without cream, is lusciously indulgent. Among the desserts (£4), the treacle tart is thin and handmade with craft. The Eton Mess has enough fruit to taste fresh and is ideal for a summer’s day, especially if you make an effort to chew the fresh mint in it.

The Drink
The wine and beer list are just like the food menu, in evolution. They have twenty bottles on offer (£11 - £34.50) and glasses, priced at £3.50 to £4.60 for a small and £4.75 to £6.30 for a large, are available for most choices. The Viognier Les Perles comes into its own when ordered with fish and the fresh, simple taste makes it a refreshing summer wine. Beers (£3.30 - £3.80) include bottled Super Bock, San Miguel, Sol and Peroni alongside Staropramen, Addlestones, Becks Vier and the rare Hogan’s Cider. Brugse Zot, Brooklyn Lager and others are in the pipeline along with a short list of vintage cocktails.

The Last Word
Slightly hedonistic and very enjoyable, it’s worth travelling to The Black Dog from outside Vauxhall. And if it’s too warm to stay inside, you can even hire rugs from the pub and have a picnic in the park.

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