174 Northcote Road,
Battersea,
London,
SW11 6RE
(020) 7228 4040
The ViewLondon Review
It's quite something when a bar is full to bursting on a Wednesday evening. The Bolingbroke cleverly combines the look of somewhere rather expensive and exclusive with the feel of a reliable, cosy joint. And the result? A fabulous night out.
The Venue
Northcote Road is one of those streets that on a balmy Saturday night can play host to the kind of revelry reminiscent of a Mediterranean hotspot. However the Bolingbroke is located right up the other end, so far removed from the action that you'd have to be very determined to make it this far.
The venue is easy to spot as it stands alone on a corner, with a few outside tables and chairs neatly to one side, exuding a warm glow that beckons you in. The bar area features simple wooden furniture which allows centre stage to be taken by the very attractive bar. The lighting at the Bolingbroke is the thing – subtle yet homely – the perfect date lighting in fact.
A small doorway to the left of the bar leads through to the restaurant. With its sloping glass fairy-lit ceiling, candlelit tables and fireplace at one end, this is almost a setting fit for a marriage proposal. Having said that, the tables are positioned quite closely to one another so if you are planning an intimate evening, be sure to keep your voice down.
The Atmosphere
The vibe at the Bolingbroke draws you in, wraps you up and makes you feel like you're in an advert for Southern Comfort. Everyone in the bar seems to be laughing and having fun and you can imagine an evening flying by in this place. The bar staff and the waiting staff in the restaurant are casually dressed, unassuming and ready with menu recommendations.
Unlike the majority of the bars in the thick of Northcote Road, the regulars here are in their late thirties and forties with singles, couples and the odd family happily mixing together. This is essentially a residential, albeit affluent area and the overriding feel is of a friendly and welcoming local hangout.
The Food
This is a sophisticated and adventurous menu with a focus on fish. Starters range from £6.50 for Jerusalem artichoke and truffle soup to £8.50 for pheasant and foie gras terrine with cranberry compote. Trout, lobster and haddock also feature leaving an oxtail soup with parsnip crisps (£7) as the only meat option.
The balsamic roasted beetroot, goat’s cheese and walnut salad is an original vegetarian dish which, while light, comes in such a generous portion it could qualify as a main.
This seasonal menu offers a wealth of warming and hearty main courses (from £10). Less fancy than the starters, the slow-roasted lamb shoulder with lentils (£14.50) and roast turkey ballotine with all the trimmings (£13) and British beef burger (£10) are good stomach fillers on a wintery evening, while the wild mushroom and Somerset brie Wellington with vegetables is a delicious and very generous dish for £12.50.
If you're someone who can't see past the steak on a menu, then the sirloin steak with hand cut chips, mixed leaves and béarnaise sauce (£17.50) makes up for your lack of originality. For once, there is plenty of sauce offered with the large slab of tender meat and the hefty chips are extremely filling.
Puddings are very impressive here and a very good deal at £5.50 each. Hot chocolate fondant with honey ice cream, sticky date pudding with toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream, lemon meringue pie, and Baileys crème brulee – how's a girl supposed to choose just one from that lot? You'd better hope your date has a sweet tooth and a generous nature.
The Drink
There is a bit of everything at the bar at the Bolingbroke. The wine list is a varied international selection with prices starting at £13.50 for the very pleasant house white, before going upto £38.50 for a red Cotes de Beaune. If the romantic restaurant does get the better of you a bottle of Laurent Perrier rose will set you back £79.95.
Guest beers sit alongside draughts of Bulmers and San Miguel, or numerous bottle beers including Leffe, Asahi and Duvel. Cocktails are mainly classic with a sprinkling of contemporary ones for good measure.
The Last Word
You will be richly rewarded if you do trudge that extra distance from Clapham Junction station. The Bolingbroke looks good, feels good and is one of the classier establishments in this part of south west London.
The Bolingbroke has been reviewed by 12 users