Think gastro pubs are all pomp and pretension? Have your preconceptions shattered at this charming park-side pub that successfully balances its down-to-earth bar with an accomplished kitchen.

The Venue
The Britannia suffers a little from its location, being a pain to get to for anyone other than East End locals from the residential areas surrounding Victoria Park. After all, there’s no – shock horror – tube station anywhere nearby. That said, it’s a quick, easy 10 minute bus ride from Mile End tube, so hardly out in the sticks. It’s worth getting over your fear of the bus system to check it out. For locals, its location couldn’t be better, being a pleasant stroll past greenery and, would you believe it in London, trees. Really. The pub itself is resplendent with a bold green exterior that is muted enough not to be garish but makes a statement on the otherwise quiet road. A large building, it certainly cuts a striking figure.

Stepping inside, you’ll find a traditional pub with an almost indie edge, certainly not what you might imagine if you’re visiting for food. This is a pub with heart. To the right is a dark stage area surrounded by plenty of standing room, where live bands play every week. The acoustics are excellent given the high ceilings and large, airy space. The bar, located directly in front of the main entryway, is long and more than adequate for serving a throng of thirsty punters. To the far left is the dining area, just past a small lounging space comprising comfortable leather sofas. The dining room is simple and doesn’t hint at the usual gastro pub cliches. The tables are simple and unadorned by fancy tablecloths, although the glassware sparkles. There are plenty of places to sit and they’re well spaced out. The area is basically an offshoot of the main pub and isn’t in any way segregated, so you feel the atmosphere and charm of the bar whilst dining.

Warmth is added courtesy of the dark red and green colour scheme, lightened by white walls. Candles sit on the tables, complementing the light from several low-hanging light fittings above. Drapes adorn the windows and edge out of the ceilings and walls, adding an almost theatrical edge to the venue that works well when live bands are playing. There are also some Victorian paintings and photographs to bring it all together. Outside is a large garden where they hold regular weekly film screenings in conjunction with the BFI during the summer months on a 26x15 foot screen. There’s also a barbecue space for when the weather is good.

The Atmosphere
The Britannia is a real locals’ pub but you don’t have to be a part of the clique to be welcomed. It successfully merges live music with a laid back bar and high quality cuisine with ease and does each very well.

Every Wednesday they host live music performances and the modern folk music spills across the space into the bistro area, providing an extremely pleasant soundtrack to dining. The hubbub in the bar area also spills across, adding to the pub’s charm. The dining area is laid back but the service is great and restaurant etiquette is closely followed. It’s certainly impressive how they’ve managed to bring so many facets of the venue together without losing out on quality.

The Food
The food on offer at The Britannia is excellent. There’s a short bar menu and the bistro menu is small, with four choices each within starters, mains and desserts, but they’re beautifully presented and extremely well put together. The menu changes regularly so the locals don’t get bored.

For starters, a chilled leek soup with crushed hazelnuts (£4.50) is stunningly presented in a large bowl. The deep green soup is creamy but light with the flavours of the leek lifted by the delicate sweetness and crunch of the crushed hazelnuts, sprinkled in a small circle in the centre of the bowl. Alternatively, there’s the salad of warm smoked salmon, crayfish, pea shoots and cauliflower puree (£7). The salmon is delicate but meaty with a lightly smoked undertone. The crayfish are plump and perfectly cooked and their fresh flavour lifts the dish. A pleasant crunch comes courtesy of the pea shoots and the cauliflower puree adds a slight sweetness that brings it all together.

Mains are equally impressive. The pan fried sea trout with broad beans, roasted artichoke hearts and chive creme fresh (£11.50) is an excellent example of the dish. The sea trout is meaty but light, the fish flaking perfectly at the touch of a fork to reveal the delicate pink flesh beneath. The slight crunch of the skin adds a nice texture to each mouthful. The creme fresh is light and well prepared, complementing the fish perfectly and the broad beans add a nice texture whilst the vinegary flavour of the artichokes adds a nice punch. Alternatively, the slow cooked pork belly with runner beans accompanied by carrot and cardamom puree (£13.50) is a meaty dish that perfectly balances its flavours. The pork belly is rich and tender and the crackling on top is crisp and crunchy without being tough, adding texture and flavour to the pork. The puree is light and a nice twist on the usual apple sauce, adding its own sweetness, and the runner beans are fresh. Sides (£3.50) of creamy mash potato or perfectly cooked, buttery new potatoes are recommended for either dish.

Desserts (£5) round off the meal nicely. The English cherry soup with clotted cream is just that – a tart soup with a slight sweetness, cut through by the cream. Two stewed cherries sit in the soup, adding some texture. Alternatively, the apple and frangipane tart with rum and raisin ice cream is well balanced. The apple is sweet but not overpowering and the frangipane has a pleasant, subtle underlying flavour. The pastry is light and it’s all well balanced by the creamy ice cream.

The Drink
If you’re dining at The Britannia, there’s an impressive wine list that’s well divided by tasting notes to make your choice easier. Sparkling bottles (£35-150), white (£16-£45), red (£15-£45) and rose (£15-£19) options are available, including fine wines and bin ends at a reduced price. It’s a shame that more aren’t available by the glass, but the average price of a bottle is quite low at the £20-£25 mark. Highly recommended is the unusual Gruner Veltliner Kamptal 2007 from Austria, similar in style to a German Riesling. Easy to drink with apple notes, it’s an ideal accompaniment to fish dishes.

If you’re just popping in for a drink in the pub then they have draught beer like Stella, Becks Vier and Staropramen alongside ales. There’s also a fully stocked bar with a wide array of spirits.

The Last Word
The Britannia perfectly merges a pub, live music venue and restaurant with seamless efficiency. Worth a visit even if you do have to take the bus.

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