61-63 West Smithfield,
Farringdon,
London,
EC1A 9DY
0872 148 2652
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
The Butcher's Hook and Cleaver is a venue that fits its Smithfield surroundings well. As part of the Fuller’s group, it’s a good example of how to sympathetically adapt an old building in create a pub with character and appeal.
The Venue
Smithfield is redolent with history. Medieval tournaments and livestock markets were held here; it was also the grim witness to innumerable executions including those of Braveheart, Sir William Wallace and peasant leader, Wat Tyler. Most appropriately from 1123 until 1855 it was the site for the huge Bartholomew Fayre celebrated in the Ben Jonson play and famed for enjoyment and entertainment. The Butcher’s Hook and Cleaver has, therefore, a time-honoured tradition to fulfil.
The venue itself consists of two 1860s buildings. The building to the left is in a mock-Tudor Gothic style and once housed a meat wholesaler; on the right a restrained much-windowed classical facade is that of a former Midland Bank.
The interior has benefitted from an effective renovation. There’s a long elegant bar and wood and tiled floors, the high ground-floor ceiling is hung with four elaborate chandeliers, walls are filled with prints and engravings recalling past times, but most impressive is a complete wall design of Georgian scenes modelled on Hogarth’s O The Roast Beef of England. There’s a comfortable carpeted semi-snug for group dining as well as plentiful chairs and tables elsewhere. The most-eye-catching feature is a wrought iron spiral staircase with acanthus decoration and gilded highlights. This leads to a large upstairs balcony section from which there are pleasing views of St Bartholomew’s Hospital and Smithfield Market.
The Atmosphere
The venue is a great favourite of local office workers from firms such as Merrill Lynch plus students and staff at Bart’s Hospital and tourists viewing Smithfield Market and the St Bartholomew the Great Church. The latter customers sometimes include Scots toasting the heroic memory of Sir William Wallace whose statue stands opposite.
Lunchtimes are largely filled by diners but early evenings attract drinkers who favour lighter snacks with their drinks. The ambience is always good humoured as the different types of customers mix agreeably.
The Food
This is one of Fuller’s Ale and Pie houses and pies include a fisherman’s, steak and Fuller’s ale, and venison, port and prune. The puddings include a Bailey’s bread and butter. In addition, there is a solid selection of snacks, sandwiches, and evening sharer platters are deservedly popular.
The Drink
The range of Fuller’s ales on handpump includes Chiswick, Discovery, London Pride and ESB, together with specials like Gale’s Seafarers. High consumption ensures that the ales flow in volume and are in excellent condition.
There’s also a selection of lagers, and the spirits and liqueurs offer a wide choice. Of particular note is the fact that the Butcher’s Hook and Cleaver has become a mecca for vodka drinkers. Among the range are several flavoured tipples from the Absolut brand, together with premium offerings like Grey Goose, Ketel and Zubrowka. In addition, there is the Polish Old Krupnik honey-infused vodka liqueur.
The Last Word
The Butcher’s Hook and Cleaver offers good food, grand ales and a great atmosphere. Furthermore, its design, style and personality, fittingly acknowledge the historic heritage of Smithfield.
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