With youth on its side, The Calf is a playful pub for games and giggles.

The Venue
Hauling yourself off the main drag of Clapham High Street may not feel worth it when bars there abound. Taking that attitude, it must be assumed The Calf has escaped you, as it merits going a little further afield. Still only five or so minutes from Clapham Common tube, the short trot ends comfortably – in giant, brown leather sofas and deep, cosy armchairs. The curtained-off sections keep going and going with plenty of tables for all, and after opening out in a raised back room, there is yet more space to come in the games area at the end.

The pub is warmly decorated but youthful, its yellow bricks, ceiling fans, tinted skylights and cream coloured rafters make it light and airy to match the spacious, breezy atmosphere. Local artwork available for purchase blends in, and yet constantly updates the walls.

The Atmosphere
Plimsoll-wearing happy people and mixed parties with youngsters fill this venue all week long. Despite its acreage, it is tough to imagine it empty as big kids mucking around have more than enough personality to fill it. Board games, a weekly quiz, darts and pool top the gaming bill. A favourite is the balance-the-coin-on-the-floating-lemon challenge that can win you a drink.

The staff won’t spoil the fun and yet don’t particularly join in. Unfazed, the bartenders methodically work through the throng. Speed is not top priority but it’s all done right. You wait your turn. You mind your manners. Everything just moves along.

The Food
Given the beast of its namesake, patrons would be forgiven for expecting The Calf’s menu to be cow centric. It’s not, and has a superb variety on offer, snacks including duck quesadilla, halloumi stuffed baked red peppers, and sticky pork ribs to name the most enticing. What the beef brigade will be pleased to see is that a decent list of handmade burgers features. For a double meat whammy with impressive freshness, the towering chorizo, avocado and salsa beef burger (£8.50 for 8oz and £9.50 for 10oz) will challenge even the most dedicated of carnivores, the vintage cheddar and bacon equally taking its toll. The centrality of the grill, located next to the bar, and a high burger turnover does not lend itself to the subtleties of doneness - be aware they could arrive overcooked.

For those less bothered by the bovine theme, there’s plenty more to satisfy. The warm goat cheese salad with beetroot, sugar snap peas, spring onions and gem lettuce (£6.25) is clean, balanced and perfectly dressed. How The Calf sells a single dessert after all that is unfathomable, but the ‘little bit of each’ selection (£4.95) is a genius sharing idea for just a taste of something sweet.

The Drink
Fun and fruity can best summarise the bar offerings, and come winter or summer there’s something to suit. The smooth Saam Pinotage (£3.60 for 175ml) has dark berry and plum flavours with hints of vanilla to lighten it up. When the nights draw in though, there are punchier reds. With lime and melon, the Chilean Palena Sauvignon Blanc (£10.50) holds its own on the tropical side.

If beer is more your thing then they offer the strawberry beer Fruli (£3.80). The bottles hover around the £3.50 mark and there are more strawberries, as the pub stocks Brothers Strawberry. If you know what you’re doing with ciders then the Brothers Festival Strength 7% has a sparkly kick quite beyond any other pear cider there is.

The Last Word
A pleasant detour from the chain bar dominated centre of Clapham, The Calf and its upbeat lot are a great way to squander away a silly afternoon. This place is for big kids looking to get rid of their excess energy.

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