With a kitchen overseen by one of the founders of the gastropub movement, the Canton Arms is a decent local pub as well as a foodie haven.

The Venue
This big Victorian roadside pile between Stockwell and Vauxhall was reopened in 2010 as a minimalist but not at all unfriendly gastropub. Inside there are the bare bones of the original Victorian features – a big octagonal island bar surrounded by a strip of floor tiling, pillars and some pleasantly large windows with remnants of leading and stained glass. Simple wooden furniture, deep red decor, scrubbed surfaces and a table full of papers and magazines give a homely touch. A front terrace adds al fresco seating. Although the entire public area has been opened up, a strict operational divide is maintained between the restaurant area at the back and the pub section at the front.

The Atmosphere
Though the food brings in an appreciative and slightly posh crowd, there’s an informality about the Canton Arms that still attracts plenty of locals just to sup a pint – even on a midweek night it is busy, but the laid back feel and the windows also make it a perfect mid-afternoon people watching venue. Big screen sport appears occasionally.

The Food
Trish Hilferty, who now presides in the kitchen, was the original chef at what’s widely agreed to be one of the first gastropubs, the Eagle in Farringdon. She cooks up a shortish daily changing menu of imaginative and fresh seasonal food, at reasonable prices given the quality. Examples might include grilled polenta with braised swiss chard, chilli and ricotta (£11.20), roast hake with “little white beans” in aioli (£14) or roast wood pigeon, salsify and leek (£12.80), with almond and blood orange pick-me-up for dessert (£4.80). No bookings are taken for dining space so you’ll have to turn up and take your chances, but you can always graze at the bar on a selection of bar snacks that include twists on that old pub staple, the toastie. The humble output of the faithful Breville may well turn out to be filled with Quicks Cheddar (with baked beans if you prefer), foie gras or haggis.

The Drink
Most London pubs who stock a Timothy Taylor beer opt for the ubiquitous Landlord; once again the Canton Arms does things differently by choosing instead the Yorkshire brewer’s excellent light mild Golden Best. The other cask regular is Betty Stoggs from Cornwall’s Skinners, while two guests might come from Black Sheep, Cotleigh, Loddon, Marlow, Moorhouses, Red Squirrel, Rudgate or Twickenham. Keg beers stretch to Sagres and there’s Budvar, Leffe and Newcastle Brown in the fridge. There’s a small collection of whiskies and eaux de vie, and a list of over 30 wines – nearly all French with the odd Italian or Spanish entry, with 13 by the glass (from £3.40).

The Last Word
A gastropub that balances the pub element alongside the gastro, the Canton Arms serves up a decent pint as well as a good quality meal in an informal setting.

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