58 Penton Street,
Islington,
London,
N1 9PZ
(020) 7837 3891
The ViewLondon Review
The food at The Compass exceeds expectations. A welcome addition to Islington.
The Venue
There is a general feeling of cleanliness to The Compass, although it won’t strike you as particularly fancy. Welcoming is the word. The warming ambience comes from the handmade loaves of bread on a dedicated table, homely kitchen tools hanging above the cooking area, stacks of white plates and colourful jars of pickled vegetables. Otherwise, the furnishing is very simple. Expect mix and match wooden tables and chairs with leather padding in a simple room painted cream with a chocolate brown ceiling. There's no division between the bar and dining areas.
Outside, six benches facing south allow you to catch some rays when the sun is out, relatively undisturbed by the traffic of Penton Street. Upstairs is a pretty function room available for private hire, awaiting punters with a second bar and an open fire in the winter.
The Atmosphere
The atmosphere at The Compass is very relaxed and it’s easy to feel at home. The staff are particularly friendly, offering not only smiles but jokes as well. The bar is loud with chatter, easily overcoming the non intrusive background music.
In its previous incarnation as the Salmon and Compass this was more of a party venue. Now it has a steady flow of punters who have turned it into their local, although there is no feeling of exclusivity here and regulars and newcomers are made to feel equally welcome. The function room upstairs plays host to regular comedy nights and has the facilities for film screenings.
The Food
The Compass offers a seasonal menu with a number of French dishes, although the ingredients used are locally sourced from across England. Admirably, they produce everything in house, from the pickles to the bread.
There’s a good selection of starters (£5-£6.50). Recommended are the rather unusual braised English snails with garlic puree and parsley – an undeniably French-influenced dish with the robust consistency of English food. The flavour of the snails is full bodied and intense. Alternatively, the English asparagus with melted butter is cooked to perfection but you may wish that there were a few more as - even for a starter - the offering is on the paltry side.
For the mains (£8-£15) there’s a nice balance of fish and meat dishes with a decent vegetarian option included. However, recommended is the roasted wood pigeon with broad beans, Jersey new potatoes and confit garlic. The pigeon is cooked very well and has a deep, gamey flavour that works with the trimmings. The potatoes and broad beans are surprisingly light and complement the pigeon rather than overpowering it.
The tarka dhal, a seemingly inoffensive vegetarian option, is actually hot and spicy with the perfect consistency and balance of spices - surprising for a venue that doesn’t specialise in Indian food. It is served with a large homemade flat bread that is heavy and thick with black grill marks on each side providing a pleasant underlying charred flavour.
To round off your meal, indulge in a well priced dessert (£4). The fresh strawberry Eton mess is well prepared with good quality, fresh ingredients. The strawberries are generous and have a delicate sweetness that cuts through the meringue and cream. However, highly recommended is the vanilla, Earl Gray and prune creme brulee. The crisp caramalised top cracks satisfyingly to reveal a rich custard beneath that balances the sweetness of the prune and creaminess of the vanilla with an almost earthy tea flavour.
The Drink
The wine list is long and well structured. You can choose from nine whites (£13.50-£34), a dozen reds (£13.50-£40) and four roses (£15-£28), most of which are available not only by the glass but the carafe as well. Alongside the classic grape varieties imported from France, Chile, Italy and Spain, you can order three Portuguese wines, including a Cabernet Touriga National Adega De Pegoes. If this geographical novelty does not attract you, opt for an Italian Pinot Grigio Villa Canlungo Collio, which is light bodied and clean with tropical fruit and apple notes. Within the reds, the Malbec Reserve Don David from Argentina has red fruit flavours with spicy notes - an ideal accompaniment for meat dishes.
If you’re out to celebrate, you can choose a well priced prosecco (£22.50) or one of four Champagnes (£33-£130). Otherwise, if you're not eating and are happy to chat over a quiet pint, there are three real ales (£3): Adnams Bitter, East India Pale Ale and a guest brew. You can also indulge in their great selection of draught beer (£3.25-£4.10) including Bitburger, Amstel, Heineken and the rare German wheat beer Licher, as well as Aspal and Cheddar Valley flat cider. The bottle selection (£3.25-3.50) includes Corona, Moretti, Magners and St Helier pear cider.
The Last Word
The Compass embodies the friendly, approachable side of gastro pubs. Formalities and pretension are left at the door in favour of great food and a welcoming atmosphere.
The Compass has been reviewed by 11 users