Who needs Stella when the selection of beer on offer is this good? If you’re not passionate about beer when you arrive at Dean Swift, you will be by the time you leave.

The Venue
Dean Swift has tidied up its image without forgetting it is, first and foremost, a pub. Glamorous touches like black leather sofa seating, marble effect round tables, chandeliers and funky beer-related artwork are mixed up with more down to earth roughshod wooden tables, blackboards, three plasma screens and a simple corner bar covered in draught pumps. It’s a mix that works well for the pub, balancing the style of a bar with the heart of a boozer.

The Atmosphere
This is a real locals haunt, that much is clear from the warm welcomes and happy greetings between the staff and the punters. Luckily, it’s a courtesy that’s extended to first timers and the very friendly bar staff do the utmost to ensure everyone leaves with a smile. It’s the kind of warm, genuine service that keeps return business high.

The Food
A lengthy food menu is well priced and offers better dishes than your standard pub grub, without the pretension of gastropub fare. The chef’s burger (£8) is large with a thick meaty patty cooked to specification – a nice touch. So big you will end up with half of it down your front, it does tend towards being a little soggy but it’s so tasty you’ll have gobbled it down before the juices from the burger, tomatoes, salsa and garlic mayo can do too much damage to the bun. The accompanying skin-on chips are delicious with a pleasant rustic feel aided by the wooden board it’s served on. Alternatively, the fish pie is excellent, with a delicate balance of flavours from the rich salmon to the creamy sauce, underpinned by a slight hint of parsley that comes through in every bite. Delicious and very good value at £8.95.

The Drink
This is where Dean Swift really excels. The huge beer selection has been carefully chosen and is one of the best in London. On draught alone you have a choice of Stiegl Goldbrau, Veltins Pilsner, Harviestoun Bitter and Twisted, Maisel’s Weisse, Sierra Nevada, Staropramen, Guinness and their house lager – a fizzy pilsner with a wheaty flavour and grassy notes. Also clever is the introduction of a beer and cheese taster. Costing £7, you get a bottle of beer matched to a Neal’s Yard cheese, presented beautifully on a board with crackers and a delicious alcoholic chutney with a deep sweetness. Highly recommended is the perfectly matched Haford Cheese with Kernal Amber Ale – the caramel notes of the easy to drink beer is perfectly matched with the deep creaminess of the cheese.

If you’re a bit girly when it comes to beer then the Timmermans Kriek has a delightful cherry flavour that isn’t as sickly as the usual strawberry Fruli. Alternatively, wine is not an afterthought here and the well-selected wine menu is equally impressive. Bottles range from £13.50 to £40 and they have a good choice of half bottles as well. The Pinot Grigio Garganega del Veneto is a dry, medium bodied wine with a delightful citrus flavour that makes for a great drinking wine. It’s nice to see that the beer focus hasn’t detracted from the pub’s other options.

The Last Word
Dean Swift has the balance spot on. A very well conceived pub that’s worth making a point of visiting – especially if you’re a beer connoisseur.

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