An undeniably elegant venue overlooked by Richmond Park and some of South London’s most beautiful houses, the term gastropub doesn’t quite cover The Dysart Arms, where ‘run of the mill’ gives way to live classical music, candles and a serene ambience.

The Venue
Situated as it is on the road that joins Kingston to Richmond, this is the sort of place you might get a glimpse of as you drive past on your way somewhere else. At night the soft lighting gives off a glow that hints at what lies within, but during the day you could be forgiven for passing it off as just another family pub. It is located opposite a pedestrian entrance to the park and has a car park making it perfectly placed to catch punters after a bracing walk – another reason to think this might be a kick back with a pint and a packet of crisps kind of joint.

In fact, The Dysart is a beautiful space with high ceilings, pale walls, light wood furniture and smartly dressed staff. The lead lined windows, church candles and uniform tables and chairs make this feel like a refectory while the immaculate bar with its metal stools and pink tulips inject a modern twist.

The Atmosphere
The pristine finish to the interior decor of The Dysart definitely provides the wow factor on your first visit. However, although the lighting is warm and romantic and the young staff are pleasant enough, there is a somewhat austere feel which makes you feel slightly raucous should the conversation get too loud.

The clientele, who look as if they live in the very grand homes in the area, are mainly in their forties and fifties and they help to maintain the refined atmosphere. It’s an idea to dress in something other than jeans and trainers in the evening if only to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb amongst the heavily perfumed, expensively clad regulars.

The Dysart has been nominated for best live music venue by Smooth Radio and this is something the management are keen to exploit. Music is a key feature here and the live jazz sessions are popular on Thursday evenings while the piano in one corner is utilised regularly by classical pianists on Fridays and Saturdays.

The Food
The emphasis placed on the food means you get the impression The Dysart is more for dining than drinking. The majority of the tables are neatly laid out for lunch or dinner and there are further dining rooms upstairs for hire. The menu is printed daily with a roast available on Sundays – although this doesn’t seem like the sort of restaurant to bring the kids to. However, the menu is varied and while it is pricey for what is essentially a pub, the service and the setting suggests something rather more salubrious.

The menu is seasonal so it is never static, with the exception of a couple of signature dishes. Starters (around £6-£8) are mostly light and flavoursome although the organic bread served with olive oil is delicious enough on its own (£2.50). Try the tiger prawn salad with papaya, pink grapefruit, chilli and peanuts as it is a really fresh tasting Oriental-style dish that is a good palate cleanser (£7.50). The pork rillettes with cornichons and toast sounds scarier than it is and is good to nibble at (£6.50). For vegetarians there is a mushroom soup or a beetroot and lentil salad with fresh goat’s curd (£6.50).

The never-off-the-menu rump steak with anchovy butter, chips and green beans (£16.95) and the beer battered haddock with chips and mushy peas (£14.95) are probably the closest to pub fare you will get at the Dysart, although at these prices the generous portions are just as well. The vegetarian option of sweet potato and aubergine tagine with couscous and tzatziki (£11) is also a hearty-sized meal with a really delicious spicy sauce soaked up by the well-cooked vegetables.

Finally, while there are more exotic desserts on offer, such as the pineapple and chilli carpaccio ice-cream, how can you resist the stewed rhubarb with crushed meringue (£6) and vanilla ice-cream? It is underwhelmingly served in a small glass tumbler but it tastes divine, the sourness of the soft rhubarb balanced perfectly by the sweetness of the crispy meringue.

The Drink
The extensive wine list makes for a long read and includes everything from cocktails (£6-£9) to Veuve Cliquot Champagne (£120 a bottle). However, a decent house red is reasonably priced at £3.75 - a noticeable and welcome exception to the generally high prices.

Adnams provide the house ale and a guest is also present for around £3.40 a pint. Becks Vier, Staropramen and Leffe are also available on tap and although pint drinkers appear to be in short supply on winter evenings, when the sun comes out and The Dysart replaces its outside tables and benches, things have the potential to lighten up a bit.

The Last Word
This is a beautiful venue reminiscent of a more elegant time. However, The Dysart is perhaps stuck between being a pub and something more sophisticated, and while this means attentive service and high brow entertainment, you pay for it when the food bill arrives.

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