If you live in Notting Hill, you probably have gastropub fatigue and are itching to go to a genuine, old fashioned pub with good prices. Whilst this Sam Smiths pub is certainly well presented and cheap, it does prove the old adage ‘you get what you pay for’.

The Venue
If you’re a regular to Portobello Market, then you have probably passed this wonderfully archaic pub a thousand times. It blends into the hubbub of Portobello Road; a refreshing oasis of calm in the middle of all the chaos.

Your first impression of the Earl of Lonsdale will undoubtedly be one of relief that this isn’t just another Notting Hill gastro convert, although the decor of its two halves are strikingly different and depend upon which of the two doors you enter. The front of the building consists of tiny enclaves with little doors that you have to duck to get through, whereas the back is a big, airy dining room complete with two fireplaces that blast out a comforting heat during the winter months.

The walls display various pictures documenting Notting Hill through the years with photos of the carnival, Portobello Road market and Bayswater Road in the ‘20s. In the main bar area, people who sit around the wooden bar tend to be older and a bit more raucous, whereas people in the dining room appear to desire a quiet chat amongst friends alongside a bite to eat. A big draw of the Earl of Lonsdale is the large walled beer garden, ideal if you want to retreat from the market but still enjoy the benefits of being outside.

The Atmosphere
Depending on when you visit, the atmosphere of the Earl of Lonsdale varies greatly. During the week it can be quiet although it doesn’t suffer the deathly silence that can squeeze the life from a pub like this. Come the weekend, it quickly becomes rammed either with market or party goers and is a welcome change from the identikit pubs of the area. You will find locals and a young after work crowd mixed with well established regulars who have been coming here for years and aren’t afraid to tell you as much.

The Food
If you are hungry when you get to the Earl of Lonsdale, you are likely to be left disappointed. The menu hints at a lack of quality with cheap prices and pictures of food on an old school, worn out, laminated menu. When ordering the fishermans pie (£5.95) and traditional cottage pie (£4.95) your meal will be presented to you as slop on a plate. Peering warily at the dishes, you’ll soon discover that the taste is as bad as its appearance. It appears to have been microwaved badly, arrives lukewarm and is hard to swallow. The vegetables that come with it - peas, cabbage and carrots - look sad and abused and taste as such.

The Drink
Being a Sam Smiths pub, everything including the cola is Sam Smiths branded. You won’t find Stella and Carling in here, instead there is their own brew and it’s delightfully delicious. Their beer is good quality and is reasonably priced. A round could easily cost you less than a fiver as pints are priced as low as £2 and soft drinks £1. Be a bit cautious of the wine though, as it can be a bit hit and miss.

The Last Word
Sam Smiths pubs offer a cheap alternative to many local pubs. It’s just a shame that the Earl of Lonsdale appears to have cut corners to remain competitive and offers a poor choice of food and wine. Luckily, the beer is its saving grace, making this a decent enough choice for a pint.

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