It can be a worrying time when your favourite local is suddenly engulfed by a large pub group; however, the Geronimo Inns takeover of The Elgin has done it no harm. In fact, the quality menu and excellent wine list have only improved this charming pub. Worth the trip to West London for those that don’t hail from the area.

The Venue
The Elgin is handily located a short stroll from Ladbroke Grove tube station, which is a good thing if you don’t live near the end of the Hammersmith and City line and have to make the trek. It immediately stands out on a corner of Ladbroke Grove, and the aesthetic of the pleasant exterior is reflected within.

Immediately upon entering you’ll find a spacious yet cosy traditional pub with clean, modern lines that keep the balance well. The pub is set in an unusual square formation, surrounding a centralised corner-spanning bar. Although the high ceilings, white walls, ceiling fans, flowers and pine tables keep the space feeling light and airy, it’s given a cosy twist courtesy of the heavy dark wooden bar with intricate carvings, candles on the tables, a variety of lampshades from large red granny shades to low hanging white lights, dark wooden tables, comfortable sinking armchairs, intricate coving and coloured bottles behind the bar. Artwork on the walls is equally eclectic, from a large lobster print to an oil painting, black and white photos of the area, and modern art.

The best aspect of the pub’s aesthetic, however, is its layout, which is winding and partitioned cleverly so you can enjoy a private area whilst still feeling a part of the vibrant atmosphere. This is helped along by the shape of the pub, but is aided by wooden partitions and even an attractive dressing screen, sectioning off the toilets.

The Atmosphere
Thankfully, although The Elgin has been taken over by a large pub group, it has retained its charming local appeal. Even mid-week you can expect it to be busy with a mix of people, young and old. Families and groups of friends sit side-by-side and the hubbub of the pub is enough to create a warming ambience without it feeling rowdy. Although the majority of the clientele appear to be well-to-do locals, you won’t be made to feel out of place if you’re not a regular and the impossibly friendly staff go a long way to making you feel welcome. A collection of board games are available to play if you get bored and there's even free WiFi.

The staff also deserve a mention for their level of table service, offered to diners. Efficient and following standard etiquette that can be lacking in pubs, they have a great knowledge of the menu and are able to offer recommendations.

The Food
There’s a well thought out, balanced menu on offer at The Elgin with some real highlights.

For starters, the salad of Rosary Ash goat’s cheese (£7.95) is a hefty portion that could easily serve as a main course. The pile of vibrant, fresh lettuce is well dressed in a vinaigrette, giving it a pleasant lift. Underneath are three large slabs of tart, creamy goat’s cheese that work well with the soft, sweet cherry tomatoes, still on the vine. Crisp, fresh green beans add a pleasant texture to the dish, as do roasted pine nuts. Croutons are sprinkled on top and are crisp and light. Just beware, this is a filling salad. Alternatively, the Norfolk ham hock terrine (£6.50) is a delight. The generous slabs of ham terrine are meaty and full of flavour, courtesy of the herbs. It has a pleasant, firm texture and is hearty. It goes particularly well with the homemade piccalilli with a generous amount of vinegary pickled onions, and the homemade bread is fresh and light, balancing the dish perfectly. Again, it’s a particularly filling starter and you could easily eat it as a main or share it between two.

Mains range from £9-£16. The lemon sole (£13) is a highlight, with the large, flat fish arriving on the bone, pulling away to reveal the fresh, light, flavoursome sole whose flesh flakes at the touch of a fork. The underlying lemony tang complements its fresh flavour well and an underlying richness is provided courtesy of the caper butter. It comes with fresh, crisp broccoli. It’s also recommended that you order a side of buttery, well cooked new potatoes or carrots (£4.95). Alternatively, the Yorkshire rabbit leg (£13.50) doesn’t fare so well. The rabbit is tender and well cooked and comes away from the bone easily; however, the mustard sauce that it sits in is overpowering, with an unpleasant peppery aftertaste that detracts from the rabbit. Broad beans lift the dish well, but button onions and bacon only highlight the strong flavour of the sauce, and ultimately bring down the dish.

For dessert, the cheese is well priced at £6.50 for a large board covered in a delightfully tangy mango chutney, sweet quince, a generous bunch of grapes, various crackers and a choice of four chunks of cheese: Cooleeney Camembert, Berkswell, Cashel Blue and Tornegus. If you prefer a sweeter end to your meal then the lemon posset (£4.95) is an excellent dessert. A pot arrives filled with the rich, creamy posset with lemon rind throughout giving a strong, tangy flavour of lemon that is almost enough to set your teeth on edge but is well counteracted by the overt sweetness of the saccharine red sauce on top. Excellent.

The Drink
There's a lengthy, well put together wine list that covers all budgets (£13.90-£28 or £24.50-£63 for sparkling varieties) and is well divided to make your choice easier. Each wine is also well described and almost all of them are available by the glass. If you still can’t decide then the staff are able to offer good recommendations based on their own experience of the produce. Highly recommended is the Infamous Goose Sauvignon 2008 Wild Rock (£20), a sustainable wine that’s light and dry with a zingy aftertaste of lime. It goes particularly well with fish dishes.

Of course, being a pub, there’s also an excellent choice of spirits and beer, including a good range of draught beer, such as Carlsberg, Heineken, Bitburger, Aspalls cider and Guinness.

The Last Word
The Elgin is a shining example of a much-loved pub that has retained its sense of identity after a takeover by a large pub group, and has ultimately benefited from the change.

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