Reigning supreme in an area already filled with quality gastro pubs, boozers and restaurants, the Empress of India holds her head high with an almost regal sense of pride. And proud she should be.

The Venue
The Empress of India is located in the heart of Victoria Park Village, one of the quaintest areas of East London. The sense of community in this small stretch of road at the top of Victoria Park is palpable and the Empress fits in with this ethos, calling in hungry diners and drinkers to the large red canopy that sits low over outdoor tables. The exterior is certainly welcoming, offering the comfort of a gastro pub with an upmarket restaurant twist glimpsed through the large windowed frontage. The building has been around since the 1880s and is named after Queen Victoria, who once ruled India.

Inside, you’ll be greeted by a large, airy space with high white ceilings, plenty of light strewing inward through the windows and white pillars at regular intervals. You’ll immediately spy a large bar that spans the entire back wall. As impressive a bar as you’d get in any pub, the draught pumps gleam as do the rows of wine bottles stacked behind. A large mirror with an attractive Indian-style motif behind makes it a centrepiece rather than an afterthought. At the far end of the bar is an open kitchen that mirrors the traditional edge of the bar with a twist of modernity thanks to the glimpses of gleaming metal. A small bar area sits nestled against the dining tables, comprising comfortable red leather Chesterfield-style banquettes around low tables.

The dining area consists of a few simple wooden tables, adorned with gleaming cutlery and glassware. A long red leather sofa spans the whole length of the far wall with several tables pushed against it, offering a comfortable space for dining. Other wooden tables with accompanying chairs fill the rest of the room without making it too hemmed in. Above the tables hang two attractive chandelier-style lampshades comprised entirely of mussel shells. An elephant picture with a modern edge sits beside a large image painted directly onto the wall depicting more traditional Indian imagery. Even the flooring is well thought out, simple wooden floorboards giving way to a large tiled space in the centre. Heavy red drapes add a certain opulence to the space and large blackboards are a nod to its pub side, keeping the balance.

The Atmosphere
The Empress of India attracts an interesting mix of people. The venue declares itself as child friendly with special menus for the kids and baby changing facilities so there’s a definite family contingent. You’ll also find couples and friends catching up over dinner and locals popping in for a pint at the bar. Cocktails also pull in drinkers. They’ve walked the line between gastro pub, restaurant and bar very well, and the laid back ambience is reflected by the happy chatter that spills out across the venue.

Whether you’re just popping in for a quick drink or are enjoying a full meal the service is immaculate. Etiquette is observed at all times but they do so with a big smile and friendly banter. You’re well looked after without feeling harassed.

The Food
Part of Ed and Tom Martin’s group, which includes such well respected venues as The Botanist, The Cadogan and The Gun, the food at the Empress of India is unsurprisingly good. They have spit roasted meats off the rotisserie every night and all day at weekends, use locally sourced, fresh ingredients and the fish comes from Billingsgate Market. The quality certainly shows in the regularly changing menu.

A starter of Cromer crab claws in garlic butter (£9) is excellent. Beautifully presented, the pink crab claws are cracked for you so the shell peels easily away to reveal the plump, fresh, sweet crab meat beneath. The garlic butter is indulgent and provides a well rounded finish to each bite. Alternatively, the Dorset crab cake with tarragon hollandaise (£6.50) is also excellent. The crab cake is perfectly cooked with crisp breadcrumbs and a smooth, rich filling with a generous helping of crab meat. The tarragon hollandaise is creamy and rich although the tarragon doesn’t come through as strongly as it could.

You’re spoilt for choice with the mains with a great selection of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes, a long list of specials and the daily rotisserie meat. The fillet of hake (£11) is delicious, with a generous, plump fillet of perfectly fresh, white meaty fish with a full flavour. It sits atop a generous portion of smoked garlic mash with a delightfully heady smoked aftertaste that works perfectly with the freshness of the hake. A tomato, lemon and herb dressing adds a slightly vinegary lift and brings a nice tang to the dish. Alternatively, the grilled Halloway veal rump (£18.50) is a large piece of perfectly cooked meat, wonderfully pink in the middle allowing the heavy meaty flavours to shine. Sauteed spinach adds a pleasant iron-heavy freshness to each mouthful and wild mushrooms are earthy with a plump texture that works well with the tender veal. Thyme jus rounds it off perfectly.

Desserts fare equally well. The cheese board at £8 is large and could easily feed two people. It comes with a generous portion of oatcakes, crackers and chutney, although a few grapes and celery would be nice. The cheese changes monthly but the quality is guaranteed. If you prefer to end your meal with a sweet taste then the lemon and thyme cheesecake with vanilla ice cream (£5) is exceptional. The heavy, rich creaminess of the cheesecake is counteracted by the crisp base, tart lemon topping and savoury bite from the thyme, which is subtle but evident. A creamy vanilla ice cream brings it all together for an indulgent end to your meal.

The Drink
There’s a lengthy drink list here, making it an ideal stop-off for a drink if you’re not feeling hungry. A cocktail list surprises with a well-priced selection covering Champagne cocktails (£6.50-£7.50), martinis (£6.75-£7.50), classics (£6-£6.75) and short options (£6.75).

A long wine list is handily divided by grape and region although it’s not well described – ask the informative staff if you’re stuck for ideas. They’re well priced at £16-£65 with quite a few bottles also available by the glass. There are also a couple of dessert wines and Champagne (£22-£150). Highly recommended is the French Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006 (£23), with a lightness more reminiscent of a white wine. It goes well with fish and meat dishes.

Finally, its pub edge shines with a great choice of draught lager, including Guinness, Amstel and Kronenbourg, as well as a choice of real ale.

The Last Word
The Empress of India reigns with a steady hand in a highly competitive area. A regular crowd of drinkers and diners ensures a friendly, laid back atmosphere with a definite upmarket edge.

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