35-37 Battersea Rise,
Battersea,
London,
SW11 1HG
(020) 7228 9400
The ViewLondon Review
Another reason for Londoners north of the river to make the arduous journey to Battersea and locals to feel smug and boast of another string to the area’s now heaving bow.
The Venue
The Establishment is undoubtedly awkward to get to for anyone who hails from north of the river. The lack of - shock horror - a tube station is often a mental block to those used to the convenience, but it’s worth bearing in mind that this bar and restaurant is a quick bus journey from Clapham Common tube, not exactly in the middle of nowhere. It’s easy to spot, its location given away by two large flames proudly burning outside by a reasonably sized, attractive outdoor terrace thriving with alfresco drinkers in the warmer months and chilly smokers all year round.
Upon entering, you’re enveloped by a cosy yet stylish bar area complete with a large, gleaming bar and a neutral brown colour scheme that almost creates the feeling of being in a woodland shack - were woodland shacks designed to high specification. A large chandelier created from antlers only serves to heighten this feeling as do a large number of furry cow print seats and paintings adorning the walls depicting stags. The wooden floor and simple hewn tables and chairs fill the large space, pillars creating alcove-like areas ideal for groups to secret themselves away for an evening of drinking.
To the back is a smaller dining area, in the same style as the bar. Woods and brown hues fill the space although attractive golden flock wallpaper and two large chandeliers do give this area a more refined look. An open kitchen tucked just out of the way behind a heavy brown drape is a nice touch, surrounded by neat black and white tiling. In all, although the basic decor has a distinct gastro pub edge in its execution, the stylish touches and overall chic yet trendy finish makes this more an upmarket bar and restaurant with charm.
The Atmosphere
The Establishment is stylish yet charming and that comes across from the moment you step in past the flames lining the doorway and are greeted by friendly staff and a lot of smiling faces. The feeling of being in a country lodge in some far-flung location is an appealing one for Londoners tired of the Big Smoke and the deluge of attractive after-work drinkers and locals predominately in their twenties and thirties goes to show that it’s already got the thumbs up. The tone of conversation is palpable and the atmosphere is upbeat.
In the restaurant area the passion of the staff really shines and they clearly know the menu well and are confident to make recommendations and guide your choices should you need it. It’s a passion that’s contagious and gets you in the mood for enjoying top quality food and drink before the first plate has reached your table.
The Food
The food at The Establishment is simple and excellent quality with a small-ish selection that includes a few less common options and is extremely well balanced and has clearly been carefully constructed.
For starters, dishes like the steak tartar with capers, shallots and a hen’s egg (£7) is beautifully presented. The raw steak is instantly appealing with an attractive pink colour that won’t put those new to the dish off. The raw hen’s egg sits neatly atop the neat mound of minced steak, perfectly yellow and round. To the side sits some neat toasted bread. The steak is perfectly seasoned with a delightful texture that rolls around the mouth, coating it in rich meaty flavours. The yolk complements it perfectly, binding the meat in a way so as to act in tandem with the already rich flavour of the steak rather than overpowering it. The capers cut through each mouthful well with a salty finish. The only criticism is the bread is toasted to the point where it’s so hard the tough crunch detracts from the wonderful flavours of the dish itself.
If you’re less inclined to munch on raw meat then the twice baked goat’s cheese souffle (£6.50) with olives and rocket is recommended. The souffle is light and airy with an intrinsic rich creaminess from the goat’s cheese that doesn’t overpower. The olives add a delightful saltiness to each bite and the rocket brings it all back with a freshness that rounds off the dish perfectly. Excellent.
Mains fare equally well. The roast fillet of sea bass with crushed new potatoes, sauce vierge and steamed fennel is an excellent dish. The generous portion of large fillets of fresh, perfectly seasoned sea bass stands up well with little pomp and flourish, allowing the flavours of the fish to stand out. The crushed new potatoes are soft and delicate, just enough to add a nice texture and the fennel is well cooked and subtle, not overpowering with its strong flavours. The sauce vierge is also delicate.
If you prefer a more old school dish then the 10oz rib eye steak (£17.50) is excellent, served with chips (you can swap for potatoes) and a choice of sauces, although the bearnaise is worth trying. The large slab of steak aged 45 days gets the mouth watering. A medium-rare option is beautifully pink inside and perfectly tender, the juices running over the plate. A side jug generously filled with bearnaise is rich and creamy but not overpowering and sickly and you can add as much or little as you like. Highly recommended is a side of the creamy, light mashed potato, seasonal greens such as tender broccoli and crisp sugarsnap peas, or perfectly cooked, fresh spring greens with crisp flecks of bacon (all £3). It speaks volumes that the same care and attention has gone into the sides - often an afterthought - as it has the mains.
For dessert, the selection of British and Irish cheeses with chutney and oatcakes is well worth the £7 price tag. Beautifully presented and unfussy, allowing the ingredients to stand out, the cheese selection is well balanced and not cloying at the end of a heavy meal. If you prefer a sweet end to your meal then the sticky toffee pudding (£4.50) is worth trying. The pudding is wonderfully light and airy, cooked so as not to be too heavy. The butterscotch sauce is rich and very sweet without being too sickly and it’s cut through perfectly by the light flavours of the clotted cream. Delicious.
The Drink
The Establishment has been very clever in devising its drink menu, offering draught (Heineken, Guinness and Deuchers IPA) and bottle beers alongside cocktails for those just coming in for a drink, to wine and dessert cocktails if you’re settling in for a meal. The wine perfectly transcends the two sides of this venue, being chosen to complement the food whilst acting as quaffable drinking wines to enjoy in the bar area.
The wine menu is separated according to price, covering Decent, Great and Top Notch bottles ranging in price from £14.50-£55 to cater for most budgets. Although the menu offers no tasting notes, the staff are well versed in the choices on offer and are happy to guide your selection and most of the choices are available by the glass, carafe or bottle so you can mix and match. Highly recommended is the Sauvignon Blanc Spy Valley, New Zealand from the Great range for £26.50, an award-winning bottle with passion fruit characters and a creamy finish that makes it ideal for drinking on its own.
Highly recommended whether you’re just drinking in the bar or as an alternative to the standard desserts is the white chocolate martini (£7). A wonderfully rich, creamy martini with undertones of white chocolate but enough kick to also remind you this is alcoholic, it comes with a second martini glass with slices of strawberry over ice. A wonderful accompaniment and visually stimulating. They do a decent selection of cocktails covering the classics and favourites such as the porn star martini for an average price of just £6. This serves to show off their fine choice of premium spirits.
The Last Word
The Establishment is a great addition to Battersea, one that will see locals rejoicing at another fine venue on their doorstep and Londoners north of the river venturing down to see what the fuss is all about, even if it does mean having to take the bus.
The Establishment has been reviewed by 3 users