In recent years, Kings Cross hasn’t been particularly well known for good quality eateries; however, things are changing and The Fellow has stepped forward to give customers the best gastro grub in the area.

The Venue
At the top of York Way, in striking distance of Kings Cross St Pancras station, you’ll stumble across The Fellow. From the outside it doesn’t look like much, mirroring most gastropubs you’ll find across London, but upon entering you’ll discover that it has a hidden depth, worth seeking out.

The Fellow is split across two areas, although they’re not distinct from each other, in keeping with their gastropub nature. The dining area is rather diminutive in stature, filled with rustic wooden tables and chairs, with the kitchen proudly on display. In the bar area you’ll find people making the most of the more laid back seating arrangements, ordering drinks from a surprisingly sleek bar.

Upstairs on the first floor you’ll find a separate cocktail bar called the Black Door. Before entering this sultry den you’ll pass an adorable roof terrace, complete with its own garden. During winter months there are heated lamps to keep you toasty and it’s under cover so you need not fear the inevitable rain. In the hallway between the garden and the cocktail bar a mysterious red glow tempts you ever onwards. The cocktail bar is a pleasant surprise atop this gastropub, spacious with dim lighting and comfortable furnishings, it’s an attractive setting for when you’ve finished your meal downstairs.

The Atmosphere
The Fellow is an ideal environment for conversations among friends; the music is audible but not too loud, which is appreciated when you’re dining, especially. The staff are efficient and extremely friendly; when ordering food, it comes swiftly and they never fail to smile and exchange pleasantries. The Black Door upstairs is a different entity altogether, and although it may seem a little seedy at first, it’s actually very cool and sophisticated with customers mainly in their twenties-thirties.

The Food
If you are sceptical about the sudden onslaught of gastropubs across the capital then The Fellow may allay your concerns. The excellent food has people queuing out the door, so it’s recommended you call ahead and book to avoid disappointment.

The menu changes daily and is quintessentially British. Starters begin at £4 and include dishes like warm smoked salmon with horseradish cream (£5), ham hock terrine with homemade apple chutney and toast (£5) or Jerusalem artichoke soup with artichoke crisps (£4). The warm smoked salmon is a twist on a favourite; it is lightly seared giving it a crunchy yet tender texture.

Mains are hearty and the portions are big. They include such options as herb baby chicken with duck fat potatoes (£12), steak tartar with duck egg, chips and aioli (£13.50) and roast hake with caponata (£13.50). The baby chicken comes with rich gravy that goes very well with the chicken and the herbs aren’t too overbearing, working to subtly enhance the quality of the chicken. The steak tartare has a burst of spice from the capers, giving it a slight mustard flavour, and is on a par with some of the most established restaurants in the capital. Desserts have a seasonal feel to them, starting at £5 you can choose from chocolate tart with raspberry sauce and Chantilly cream (£5.75), poached figs, ginger crumble and mascarpone (£5.75), or Neal’s Yard cheeses, Millers Damsels and quince (£5).

The Drink
The Fellow caters for all tastes. Draught beer starts at £3.30 and includes Peroni, Amstel, Guinness, Heineken and Youngs bitter. If you are more of a bottled beer lover they have Budvar, Corona, San Migel and Bulmers to choose from.

The main focus, however, is the extensive wine list, available by the glass, carafe or bottle. The wine menu is clearly sectioned and well described with a brief synopsis of the grapes on offer. Whites include ‘Light and Refreshing’ bottles with such options as Le Lesc Blanc 2007 (£13.50). If you prefer ‘Aromatic and Luscious’ bottles then try the 2007 Vina Riojanas Torrontes (£15). Does ‘Elegant and Mineral’ tickle your fancy? The 2006 Saint-Veran is the only option in this category available by the glass and is recommended for £8.20. The last section ‘Rich and Complex’ is where the pricey wines are found, such as a 2006 Mersault Cuvee Charles Maxime for £50.

Reds are divided into four categories, starting with ‘Savoury and Fruity’, which includes the house 2007 Bergerie de la Bastide Rouge (£13.50). ‘Warm and Spicy’ includes a stunning 2003 Chianti Classico for £28 a bottle. The ‘Silky and Fine’ section contains a 2005 Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes (£27). In the ‘Intense and Mouthfilling’ category there is a very reasonably priced 2004 Cadet de Claymore for £25 a bottle, or if you just want a glass then try the 2006 Australian Moss Wood Vineyards Amy’s Blend Cabernet for £11.

For the sparkles, it’s good to see that there’s a lack of labels and some good quality examples like the Champagne Rodier Pere et Fils Brut for £7.50 a glass and £37.50 a bottle. If you can’t live without the labels then there is a Laurent Perrier Brut Rose for £65 and a 2000 Dom Perignon for £95.

The Last Word
Although The Fellow looks like most gastropubs, it is certainly a cut above the rest due to its outstanding food, pleasant roof garden and adjoining late night cocktail bar.

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