The Fence has the style of a midtown Manhattan tavern. It offers breakfast, brunch, barbecues and a respectable cocktail list.

The Venue
The Fence occupies the ground floor and basement of a modern block close to Farringdon station. There’s extensive glass frontage with white tiling, and the interior continues the light and airy theme with a single bar and modern furnishing. There’s ample space for sitting and standing which is handy given that it gets busy at peak times. A definite plus point is the terrace area at the back, bedecked with flower pots - a haven for smokers, it’s equally valued by people who wish to sit outside and take in the fine view of Smithfield Market. As it’s so close to the station you can feel the steady rattle of Tube and overground trains.

The Atmosphere
The Fence is very much a popular spot for local office workers. Lunchtimes are popular with diners, but both diners and drinkers attend in the evening. It stays open until 1am on Thursdays and Fridays, and on other nights when there’s demand – as there often is.

The Food
Breakfast and brunch were introduced two years ago. The full and vegetarian breakfasts are joined by others dishes. Appropriately, given its other references to NYC, the salt beef hash and duck egg is a signature dish. The brunch menu repeats the breakfast one but with additions like the chargrilled chicken Caesar salad. Lunch offers both sandwiches and salads with more substantial dishes such as rib-eye steak. In the evening there are more innovative options like the pan-fried spiced mackerel fillet on a bed of rosti potato and fine beans. All food is chef-prepared and the service is notably pleasant from the well-trained staff.

In addition to the dining area, the Fence also uses its outside area, offering daily changing barbecue dishes. These are highly appreciated on clement days and prove a big attraction to people holding parties and functions. Indeed, they’re so attractive that private weekend bookings are a common occurrence, even though the pub is closed to the general public. In winter, you’ll have to settle for the standard menu.

The Drink
Surprisingly for a Fuller’s house, the Fence has no real ale. Of interest among the draught beers are a Czech Litovel and Belgian Vedette. The wine range is a suitable accompaniment to meals or for quaffing on its own. The Picpoul de Pinet, a Languedoc white, is a welcome sight, and the reds include a noble Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Cocktails are the Fence’s claim to drinks fame. Classics like caipirinhas and mojitos sit alongside Manhattan and Long Island iced tea. To give a cosmopolitan twist the Manhattan employs Canadian whisky and the Long Island uses Finnish vodka.

The Last Word
A visit to the Fence is an enjoyable transatlantic experience. Go for breakfast, brunch, a burger or a cocktail, and it’s easy to imagine you’re in a sassy Times Square tavern.

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