If you think of Covent Garden merely as a tourist trap then The Forge may be just the eye-opener you need. A top quality bar and restaurant with a much wider appeal than the usual eateries of the area.

The Venue
The Forge couldn’t have asked for a better location, housed within a stunning old corner-positioned building on Garrick Street. Easily reached from Embankment, Leicester Square and Covent Garden tubes, don’t let its location in the heart of Central London put you off if you have preconceived notions of what the area has to offer.

Stepping into this restaurant, you’ll be hard pushed not to be impressed. Exposed brick, glass features and a sleek design that isn’t devoid of charm is what greets you. Hand your coats to the friendly staff at the front desk and you’ll be led into the main belly of the restaurant, with different spaces divided by archways. The restaurant is an attractive, well thought out space with white tablecloth bedecked tables fully laid out with gleaming glasswear and crockery surrounded by vibrant blue leather seating. White pillars and walls give an airy feel to the space whilst candlelight and spotlights provide an atmospheric ambience. A huge bunch of flowers adds a pretty edge to the decor. Wine in racks and a marble bar are the final touches.

Downstairs is the bar area, with a capacity for up to 60 people. Around a brushed metal bar resides a few tall stools in the same vibrant blue as in the restaurant upstairs and a taupe colour scheme with soft, low lighting. They also offer a private dining area for up to 20 people and even alfresco seating in the summer for an additional 20.

The Atmosphere
There’s an air of sophistication to The Forge that’s lacking in many of its neighbouring bars and restaurants. Although not staid, the atmosphere has an element of calm, although as the night wears on – especially on the run-up to the weekend – the belly laughs of after workers are palpable. A mix of well-to-do families, couples, friends and colleagues congregate here and there’s a smart look to most of the people that step through the doors.

The staff have a strong working knowledge of the food and drink menus. Restaurant etiquette is observed at all times and, although the service is efficient, there’s an underlying friendliness to the staff that is refreshing.

The Food
This is where The Forge excels. An excellent – and surprisingly large – selection of modern European dishes impress in terms of presentation, flavour and quality.

For starters (£5.50-£10.50), the half dozen Colchester oysters (9.50) arrive as a stunning plate of six fresh, well prepared, large oysters with a choice of condiments so you can build up the flavours to suit your own palate. Alternatively, the wood roasted beetroot with sugared pecans, goat's cheese and lettuce leaves is a fresh, light delight (£8.50). The beetroot has a vinegary kick that doesn’t overpower the dish and complements the tart tang of the creamy goat’s cheese well. The sugared pecans add a pleasant sweetness and much-needed crunch to the dish and the leaves bring it all together with a delicate freshness.

The mains are equally impressive. The risotto nero with scallops, squid and gremolata (£17) is an excellent, if heavy, example of the dish. The dark squid-ink stained ristotto is rich, decadent and you’ll be hard-pushed to finish a whole bowl, so it may be better to order the smaller plate for a far cheaper £8.50. The squid – comprising just the tentacles – is perfectly cooked so as not to be too rubbery and the scallops are plump with an underlying sweetness that cuts through the risotto perfectly. Alternatively, the fillet of seabass with lobster risotto (£16.50) is equally good, consisting of pieces of fresh seasbass with a light, slightly crisp skin and fresh white flakes of fish. The lobster risotto is surprisingly well balanced, not being too creamy or overpowering, instead highlighting the fish. Recommended sides include crisp French beans, iron rich fresh spinach and creamy but not over-rich dauphinoise potatoes (approx £4).

For dessert (£6.50), there’s a nice choice that includes a slightly disappointing banoffee souffle. Although it’s perfectly flavoured with the sweetness of the banana not overpowering the pudding, the souffle is a little on the gloopy side inside, rather than retaining its light fluffiness. Far better is the white chocolate cheesecake with berries. Fresh and light with a delightful white chocolate flavour that almost comes through as an aftertaste before the first hit of creaminess is delicious, perfectly matched with the tart flavour of the berries.

The bar menu borrows dishes from the restaurant upstairs, continuing in its modern European footsteps (£4.50-£7.50).

The Drink
Whether drinking in the bar or in the restaurant, it’s the wine list (£15.50-£450) that really shines, listed in a huge leather-bound book. Divided by type (white, red, rose etc) and country, the bottles aren’t described but they are well sectioned and the staff are happy to offer recommendations. There’s also a good choice of sparkling bottles (£14.50-£150) and dessert wine (£18.50-£60). Highly recommended is the Pouilly Fume Domaine Thibault, Andre Dezat 2007 (£35) a well balanced, crisp, full bodied Sauvignon Blanc with lime notes.

The Last Word
If you’re a Londoner who’s all but given up on the tourist traps of Covent Garden and the surrounding area then The Forge might just change your mind.

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