The Fox and Anchor is totally out of synch with the majority of London’s pubs, but it has the key to the future.

The Venue
Slotted into an old premises on Clerkenwell Street, the Fox and Anchor is one of those pubs that has historical appeal on the outside but none more so than any other of this ilk. Once inside, you’ll quickly notice that it’s a little special.

At first, you can’t move for the sheer volume of people in here, then you’ll notice the rich greens and oaks of the interior, crashing against each other in a foaming wave of taste and style. It’s the Barbour of the pub world, with its classic and timeless chic. The whole place is a countrified city retreat with magnums of Champagne for decoration and, also allaying to the wealth of the clientele, stocks of vintage spirits. The pub is narrow and only fits three people shoulder to shoulder so there’s no problem charging the atmosphere but if you want a little space to breath then you won’t find it here. The Fox’s enclave at the back of the pub does offer respite from the hordes but you’ll be lucky to see off all comers for the honour of that room. There are a few seats running along the wall opposite the bar, but they seem as squashed as the punters pushing both to and from the service area.

The Atmosphere
There’s nothing quiet or quick about the Fox and Anchor. The noise levels are sonorous but not sapping, the gang mentality charges you high. The clientele is of the upper echelons of the Farringdon business crowd. The expensive whiskey is there to be drunk by the men in expensive suits and unfortunately they know this and let you know it if you’re looking a little more Primark than Prada on the occasion. There’s also a faintly aggressive streak running through the pub, this may not be such a surprise with all the men cramped in together, but it’s unnecessary and telling that money doesn’t breed class. By and large though the place is friendly.

The bar staff are as polite with you as if there weren’t fifty other people waiting behind you to be served; this is a true measure of the place when it would be understandable if the service were curt. It’s certainly one of London’s pubs that’s worth checking out as it has the appeal that crosses from pub to attraction.

The Food
The menu always has specials on offer. The prices are steep but the aim of the pub is to cook quality traditional pub food with the finest source of ingredients. The Scotch fore rib of beef, tomato, mushrooms, chips and bearnaise sauce is the priciest dish on the menu at £21.50 so it might call for a special occasion. There is also sausage and mustard mash, cod in Meantime beer batter with chips and grilled lemon sole, capers and citrus butter among the dishes. If you’re not fond of the traditional good square meal then the round pies are tantalising, including traditional fish, lamb shank, and steak, kidney and oyster pudding.

The Drink
The Fox and Anchor may force you to look elsewhere when you hear about their drinks. Only one lager is offered through the entire pub, the Meantime. Some may find this refreshing (no pun intended) but others may crave the bubbly nectar. There is a vast array of ales on offer that come served in silver tankards of the like that you may have last seen being clutched by a Hobbit in some film from some time ago. Beyond the Sussex Bitter, Black Sheep and Chalky’s Bite on tap there are countless other bottles with names to savour. There is a fine wine list to accompany the food and the shelves are stocked with ultra rare whiskeys. The Redbreast, Tobermory 10 year single malt and the Johnny Walker Black Label don’t begin to make a dent in what’s on offer.

The Last Word
The Fox and Anchor is an aspirational place to go on one hand, with the fine food, drink and luxury feel. However, one man’s meat is another man’s poison and the whole credo of the pub might be too self consciously snooty for some to stomach. You decide.

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