Slap bang in the midst of London’s tourist trail, the Hampshire Bar and Restaurant is unexceptional by London restaurants standards, but for the most part it offers a quality eating experience - something far from guaranteed in the tourist stomping ground of Leicester Square.

The Venue
The restaurant at the smart five-star Radisson Edwardian Hampshire Hotel is surprisingly cosy, with sumptuous, albeit slightly brash, red crushed-velvet sofas, large art-deco style light fittings and mahogany at every turn. An open plan layout between bar and restaurant makes for relaxed dining, although the low bar lighting could perhaps be turned up a notch or two in the eating area.

The Atmosphere
Unsurprisingly, given the locale, the Hampshire’s clientele is a blend of well heeled out-of-towners, most likely guests at the hotel, and groups of Londoners having a quick bite before heading to the theatre. Beware of sitting too close to the speakers as the music - upbeat Latin jazz – is irritatingly noisy at close range. Service is charming and competent, if a little under informed.

The Food
On being seated you’re offered a selection of fresh bread, including some gorgeously fluffy white rolls and thick slices of rustic walnut loaf. Happily, starters range from a modest £6.50 to just over a tenner and include leek and Jerusalem artichoke salad and deliciously buttery pan seared scallops.

Though hearty and nicely cooked on the whole, the generously portioned mains suffer from a few flaws. Pan-seared ocean perch (£16) is tender with perfectly crispy skin, but the accompanying potato dumplings are too heavy, while the creamy white wine sauce is marred by an unwelcome balsamic jus, overwhelming the dish’s otherwise well-balanced taste. Grilled calves' liver with onion sauce, mashed potato and dry-cured bacon (£14) is fine, although the onion sauce is slimy rather than caramelised as you might hope.

Desserts, most of which are around the £6 mark, are familiar British classics, such as brown bread ice cream and apple tart with custard. Delightfully airy in texture, the lemon tart in particular is not to be missed. Frozen whisky cream with prunes and Earl Grey syrup (£6) presents a judicious pairing of flavours, although the syrup is a tad cloying.

The Drinks
Don’t even think of dining here without sampling one of the superbly executed cocktails from the bar. The impressively comprehensive list includes everything from the classic mojito to in-house delights, such as the refreshing green tea martini (both £9). Helpfully divided up according to body and flavour, the drinks list includes a good range of wines, many of which are available by the glass. The house white, a 2008 Californian Chardonnay Pinot Grigio blend, is pleasingly crisp with peachy undertones.

The last Word
If you find yourself in the vicinity, on the hunt for a fabulous cocktail or two and a pretty decent pre-theatre meal, then you could do much worse than the Hampshire. But if the meal itself is the main attraction, you’ll find more flair and innovation elsewhere.

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