The Hartley offers excellent cuisine and a healthy selection of cocktails in a relaxed, friendly setting.

The Venue
Located on a street corner on the busy Tower Bridge Road, a fair distance from the equidistant stations of Bermondsey and Borough, the Hartley's unassuming blue exterior and shaded windows belie the effortless charm and class of the main room within. The earthenware bar catches the eye at first, located slap bang in the middle of the far wall and offset by well-lit wooden shelves containing the most photogenic of the spirits on offer. To the right is a raised dais with leather sofas and a glass-topped coffee table, complete with bookshelf and board games for the more sedate bar-goer.

Over the remainder of the floor space, tables and chairs of various heights make up a considerable dining area, which leads to the open-front kitchen at the back of the room. The red-and-cream colour scheme works nicely with the varnished wooden floor, and the extraneous lamps, blackboards and hat stands strategically placed around the room lend an off-kilter charm to the proceedings. The effect is somewhat spoiled by two large flatscreen TVs, but it's a minor, muted concession to the regulars and doesn't interfere too much with conversation.

The Atmosphere
Striking an unusual balance between flashy cocktail bar and intimate gastro pub, the relatively new establishment has yet to develop a strong identity and fanbase, but what it lacks in pulling power, it makes up for in vibrancy – the staff are welcoming and very helpful in their recommendations, the music is expertly poised and the service is exemplary. One imagines that once the Hartley finds its feet, it will become the venue of choice for locals and visitors alike, although whether it can then pull off the balancing act between the rowdy bar and the subdued dining area remains to be seen.

The Food
Very much the ace up the venue's sleeve, the food at the Hartley is almost outrageously good. Issuing forth from a luxuriously appointed kitchen towards the back of the room, the portions are well-presented, satisfying and extremely tasty. The lamb cutlets with greens and dauphinois potatoes (£13.95) show that the chef makes full use of the nearby Borough market, and elsewhere steak, burgers, pasta dishes and pan-fried sea bass ensure there's something for everyone. Starters are a sure bet for those who aren't in it for the long haul - the chorizo and black pudding platter (£4.85) comes highly recommended – and the dessert selection (£4.50 for apple crumble or mouth-watering chocolate fondant with ice cream) is small but beautifully formed.

The Drink
£6.50 gets you the last word in standard and personalised cocktails – 2-for-1 in fact, from 5pm to 9pm at least – with slightly reworked classics like the passion fruit margarita and the pomegranate caipiroska working well in tandem with meals or on their own. House wine and beer is also half price at happy hour, with a wide-ranging selection of alternatives available. The bar staff definitely know their stuff, and can cater to your every alcoholic whim – a point of pride, and rightly so.

The Last Word
Done no favours by its location and unostentatious exterior, the Hartley nonetheless proves a force to be reckoned with, with top-notch food and drink, friendly staff and a laid-back atmosphere.

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