The likes of Shoreditch and Dalston may take up most of the column inches, but making a trip a touch further east is well advised. On the border of the beautiful green public space Victoria Park, The Hemingway is cool, calm and collected, but is still packed with enough oddities to keep both locals and visitors intrigued.

The Venue
The Hemingway is situated along the northernmost edge of Victoria Park, on a spot that was previously The Pennethorne. For nearby residents, choosing The Hemingway is obvious, but diving off Mare Street is well worth it for those who usually stick to the beaten track in east London. Unearthing the pub doesn’t prove too hard from Victoria Park via St Agnes or Gore gates, or you can simply navigate your way on to Victoria Park Road and access it that way.

Unmissable in its evergreen coat and surrounded by neat shrubs, geraniums and picnic tables, the outside tells nothing of the unordinary. The quirks begin inside with Dave the Hackney Yeti, who receives visitors, and surrounding him are all sorts of other specimens, from butterflies to monkeys, deer skulls and elk antlers, all of which reflects an aesthethic not too far removed from The Last Tuesday Society.

The 1920s leaning character is further honed with art deco mirrors, Mucha prints, globe lighting, Chrysler building lamps, and a scantily clad lady in bronze. Despite the mix and match air, it is surely not as thrown together as it initially seems.

The Atmosphere
Ideal for leisurely midweek drinking and long lazy weekend afternoons, friends sip G&Ts together or pore over the papers with a pint. Blues, jazz and big band oldies float around in the background from the likes of Ray Charles to Dean Martin.

Service is unsurpassed yet fittingly laid back. Dining is framed in a casual way with paper pub menus bearing the Spanish bull logo and traditional favourites. Nonetheless the waiting style is pro and more in keeping with a gastro or eatery.

The Food
With a menu covering all bases, The Hemingway keeps it simple and evolves daily. A somehow still soft Scotch egg starter (£3.50) is not too heavily seasoned or spiced, which is refreshing, particularly as it comes with zingy Piccalilli. Subtle chicken liver parfait (£5.50) has a beautiful liver flavour that builds rather than aims for a pungent hit, and is served with well thought out warm rolls and fruity chutney.

Pan-fried plaice (£13.50) is generous and delicious, adding a bit of interest to the menu with its mussel and dill dressing. You can also order a 35-day aged steak, which is a fair steak for £15.

Dessert highlights include the pub’s biscuity crumble, and summer fruits with crème Anglais at £4.50. However the marbled chocolate cheesecake, also £4.50, may not satisfy cocoa lovers, as it has a subtle chocolate flavour rather than an intense one.

The Drink
The wine list is trendily clipped at four reds, four whites and two rosés. This leaves a tight selection, among which a powerfully herbaceous McGuigan Chardonnay (£22 a bottle or £3.75 a glass) and a lively Matakana Estate Sauvignon Blanc with tropical melon and passion fruit tones (£19 bottle, £3.50 glass) are two highly refreshing tipples.

Taking inspiration from their personal collections, the new owners have a range of special spirits blended especially for them by distilleries. Some superb rums, naturally, grace the back of the bar. They couldn’t do the name Hemingway justice without them. Sip the quality liquor over ice, or watch this space for the cocktail garden, where the venue's collective cocktail bar expertise is bound to come into its own.

The Last Word
Exploring Hackney’s richness should begin and end at The Hemingway, where peculiarities seamlessly slot into a laid back but upmarket local.

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