This new venture in Chelsea offers artisan dining without all of the associated pomp and ceremony. Expect gastronomic delights in relaxed surroundings.

The Venue
Named after a 1960’s playboy, satirist and renowned letter-writer, The Henry Root is a homage to one of West London’s quirkier residents. The interior of the restaurant is as intriguing as its namesake: the walls are adorned with letter-boxes and risqué artworks; an oak-paneled bar opens out into a dining room which is relaxed and sophisticated; and at the rear of the restaurant is an open-kitchen, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work. In the far corner is a snug, surrounded by bookshelves brim-full of books, trophies and other curios, which only adds to the restaurant's eccentricity.

The Atmosphere
Opening at 11am and serving throughout the day, patrons of The Henry Root are just as welcome to pop-in for coffee and a cake as they are to sit down for a five-course meal. This gives the venue a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Staff are excellent, offering friendly advice – especially on the wine-list, which can appear daunting.

The Food
There is a mouth-watering selection on offer. If you’re finding it hard to make your mind up, you can enjoy an appetiser from the charcuterie while you make a decision. The pressed rabbit rillette and toast (£6) is delicious, with subtle seasoning allowing the rich flavour of the rabbit to come through. Starters include oak-smoked rainbow trout pate (£7), which is smooth, flavoursome and served with homemade malt bread, which really complements the smoky pate. In addition, the soused mackerel with pickled root vegetables (£7) is wonderful. The warm fillet of mackerel absorbs the sweetness of the pickled vegetables, which add a delightful crunch.

Main dishes include a perfectly cooked roasted halibut with hollandaise sauce (£19). The halibut, with its crispy edges and firm, meaty flesh, doesn’t come with any sides, so the sautéed spinach is recommended (£3.50) as its light and buttery. Specials are changed every day and may include saddle of rabbit with potatoes, prunes and apple caramel (£15). Rich and succulent, the rabbit is also stuffed with wild mushrooms, something that adds to its rustic appeal.

The Drink
The wine list is ‘a celebration of small producers and owner growers who care about the way they farm’, and includes a selection of organic, bio-dynamic and ‘natural’ wines. The Anjou Blanc (£43) is an off-dry white wine with sweet apple flavours, sharp edges and a fullness which goes equally well with meat and fish. From the reds, the Faugeres Tradition (£30.50) is excellent and rich enough in flavour to more than justify its price tag.

The Last Word
Restaurants offering this type of cuisine often serve their food in environments which are so starched and clinical, that the enjoyment of the food is lost in the formality. Thankfully, The Henry Root is a breath of fresh air and offers fine dining in relaxed surroundings. This restaurant is only relatively new, but already has the confidence of an establishment that isn’t afraid to do things a little differently. For all of its eccentricity, The Henry Root is about great ingredients and great cooking.

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