63-69 Canonbury Road,
Islington,
London,
N1 2DG
0872 148 3204
The ViewLondon Review
This is a relaxed gastro-pub peddling wondrous comfort and sybaritic ease. It has no pretensions to cutting edge glamour or cool, but it is seriously cosy, and will stroke your senses as smoothly as a particularly affectionate furry koala…
The food is the main attraction. The chef Jeremy Hollingsworth is Michelin starred and the pub has won various food prizes. The cuisine is modern British prepared using French methods, and you can eat at any of the tables scattered around, or at the low sofas in front of the brick fireplaces. In the summer you can sit under the leafy shade of a fine tree on the terrace.
Signature dishes include the Parfait of Foie Gras, Chicken livers and Armagnac; the Tatin of Red Onion, with grilled Maconnais Goat’s cheese and Rocket, the House shepherd’s pie and the Loin of Venison. Their meat suppliers are organic Scottish estates and come highly recommended.
I had the coffee and orange parfait with white coffee ice cream, which was triumphant. Too often puddings are an after thought; not so with this one. No-one could argue convincingly that puddings need to have so many flavours in them, but the frivolity of having crumbly bits, moussy bits and ice-cream with crunchy bits in it all one spoon is absolutely brilliant. Like a good loud rock song where you can nonetheless hear all the parts clearly, it hit me like a wall of complimentary tastes.
It’s good value too, considering the quality of the chef and the ingredients, £6-£8 for a starter and £12 - £18 for a main course. The wine list is humorously written with unpretentious guidance for non buffs.
With cream walls, lush flowers, incredibly sinky leather seating and the odd discreet polished surface, it’s easy on the eye too. It’s quite busy with a friendly, local atmosphere of people who want to be able to relax somewhere they can rely on to be nice. The bar staff have the friendly confidence that comes from being appreciated, and it’s easy to see why.
The House has been reviewed by 1 users