The Hoxton Urban Lodge,
81 Great Eastern Street,
Hoxton,
London,
EC2A 3HU
0871 971 4512
The ViewLondon Review
Situated inside the trendy Hoxton Hotel, the Hoxton Grille is part French bistro and part American steakhouse.The VenueA yawning chasm of a place, the Hoxton Grille shares an open-plan ground floor with the hotel reception and lounge bar, making it perfect for people spotting, as there really is nowhere for even the most famous of faces to hide.
The New York inspired brick walls and exposed air-con system are a touch on the bland side, but the room is saved by a splash of colour from a modern art canvas, which incidentally is for sale. Paper eagles at the entrance inject a little humour into a venue which could easily be in danger of taking itself a little too seriously, and the room also benefits from a glass wall looking onto a quiet inner courtyard, perfect for drinks during the warmer months.
The AtmosphereOne of the downsides of hotel restaurants tends to be the large number of guests dining solo, who have a tendency to sap the atmosphere. It is particularly problematic in this echoing space, as their silence makes it even harder to ignore the bellowing American businessmen, whose inane conversations are bounced wildly around the room by the rather excellent acoustics. Friendly staff make up for a slight lack of character however, with service that is very well-intentioned if slightly chaotic.
The FoodBritish staples meet European classics on a menu that celebrates simplicity in cooking and includes old favourites, such as chicken liver parfait and salmon fishcakes as well as some very tempting desserts. The food is great value for money and beautifully presented with some nice touches, such as the smear of creme fraiche hidden beneath the chocolate tart.
The DrinkA decent wine list offers reasonably priced bottles with several available by the glass and carafe, perfect for lone diners or those who prefer to change their wine to suit each course's dish. Cocktails are available from the bar and the list features some very curious combinations crying out to be sampled. Recommended cocktails include the Tiramisu, a dark chocolate liqueur with cafe creme and mascarpone cheese, and the Great Eastern Daiquiri, a blend of rum, coriander, mango, chilli and ginger syrup.
The Last WordWhilst the success of a night out at the Hoxton Grille depends largely on the mix of diners, the food and drinks are of a sufficiently high standard - with the all-important quirky twists - to make it a good choice when dining with a large group of friends.