11a Northington Street,
Bloomsbury,
London,
WC1N 2JF
(020) 7831 0008
The ViewLondon Review
The team behind the award-winning Princess of Shoreditch gastropub have expanded out of east London with an equally exciting dining proposition.
The Venue
This is a pub that really has kissed a frog to make a prince; well, a princess anyway. The Lady Ottoline has taken over the rather rough-around-the-edges Kings Arms and has really transformed the space. Similar to the Princess of Shoreditch, downstairs is a more laid-back affair with an open fire, lots of traditional woods and a pleasant appeal perfectly suited to enjoying a pint (although you can eat here, too). The bar is the star of the space with lots of draught pumps, including four for real ales, and it’s good to see that drinkers aren’t second class citizens here. Upstairs, however, is more intimate and primed for diners with smarter tables and chairs and a much more refined look. They have also split the space to appeal to those after private dining.
The Atmosphere
Lady Ottoline may have just opened but the in-the-know foodies have already started sniffing around – and they seem impressed. The pub has a pleasant, easygoing feel to it that is missing in a lot of central London boozers, and it’s refreshingly absent of the pretension that so many gastropubs perpetuate. Anyone who has been to the Princess of Shoreditch will know the deal. And the staff have that shiny and new attitude that makes them incredibly friendly and obviously keen for the good word-of-mouth to spread – and spread it most certainly will.
The Food
The menu at the Lady Ottoline is seasonal, clearly utilises quality ingredients, is well priced and has been carefully thought through. It may be that they have paid special attention for their launch but here’s hoping it stays that way in the coming months.
For starters, the venison salad, toasted pine nuts and balsamic dressing (£6.95) is excellent and a great example of a salad done well. The meat is well portioned, delicate enough not to overpower the leaves and has a light, smoky sweetness that works well with the sweetness of the balsamic vinegar.
It's the main courses that really impress, however, with the Kilravock farm pork belly, braised cheek, black pudding croquette, carrot and anis puree with crackling and cider jus proving to be excellent value at £15.95. It is beautifully presented, more in the style of fine cuisine than pub food, and every element has been carefully crafted and balanced. The pork is particularly good – tender, sweet and literally melt-in-the-mouth. And the puree is a very clever take on apple puree, although die-hard fans may be disappointed. Alternatively, the sirloin steak (£18.50) is a meat-lover’s dream. 28-day aged and char-grilled just enough to provide a pleasant smoky flavour without tasting burnt, it really showcases the skills of the kitchen in producing simple, quality meat dishes that deliver maximum impact in flavour.
The Drink
The wine list at Lady Ottoline is already burgeoning with the promise of that of the Princess of Shoreditch, where they only include quality and unusual bottles that really add something to the experience of dining here. And they also have a good selection by the glass, which is nice to see. However, it’s the beers that steal the show here with Wandle, Meantime Pale Ale, Mad Goose and Adnams all on tap – and also excellent quality.
The Last Word
It’s good to see a gastropub ticking so many of the right boxes and proving that ‘gastro’ need not be a dirty word for die-hard pub-goers. Job well done.
The Lady Ottoline has been reviewed by 7 users