In a city teeming with gastropub pretenders, The Landor is the real deal.

The Venue
The recently refurbished Landor is but a short skip and a jump from Clapham North tube and the ever-popular bar crawl strip that is Clapham High Street. The pub isn’t the only attraction in the building either. With the intimate and adventurous Landor Theatre upstairs, there’s a lot going on under this particular roof.

The Atmosphere
The Landor has achieved that Holy Grail of post renovation appeal – the locals have flocked back, and with them a broad swathe of newcomers. Service has been pared back to keep the costs down – food orders are taken at the bar rather than at the table. The emphasis is definitely on a down-to-earth approach, as opposed to dressed up frippery.

The Food
Chef Chas Tapaneyasastr previously worked at celebrated meat emporium Hawksmoor and it’s fair to say that, if your predilections are in any way carnivorous, then you’ll be in for an extra special treat. The menu runs the whole gastropub gamut, from scrumptious bar snacks (including hand cut chips, pork crackling and cheesy garlic bread - £2.50 each; 3 for £7) to stunning puds (white chocolate, lemon and vanilla cheesecake, dark chocolate and fudge brownie, sticky toffee pudding – all £4), by way of a profusion of delicious mains, both light and hearty.

Slow-roasted Kilravok pork belly and crackling (£8.95) is expertly prepared (unlike so many pseudo gastropub attempts) - roasted overnight with beer and honey, and served with a savoury apple tartin, fondant potatoes and buttered greens. 21-day aged Dexter rib-eye steak (£9.95) is perfectly cooked to order, with a watercress salad alongside the chef’s secret recipe ketchup-roasted chips. The Landor Aberdeen Angus burger (£7.95) is a treat served in a toasted bap with all the trimmings.

Amazingly, especially at these prices, just about everything is made in-house, from the ketchup to the ice cream. When so many so-called gastropubs are sourcing their food from big suppliers like Brakes, this is pretty inspirational, and the effort that goes into such endeavour is unquestionably evident on the plate and in the eating.

The Drink
As well as a range of lagers and real ales, including Doom Bar and Tribute, the Landor has a pretty comprehensive drinks selection. The wine list is pleasingly international and covers a wider than expected spectrum of varietals. These range from trebbiano and tempranillo (£13.50 a bottle to New Zealand sauvignon blanc (£24) and Monterey County pinot noir at £26.50.

The cocktail list features some nice numbers, including an espresso martini, lime and basil caipiroska and Russian spring punch, all at £6.

The Last Word
The food at The Landor punches well above its weight. As a whole, it’s an archetypal definition of what a gastropub can and should be.

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