The Larrik

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Venue Image
32 Crawford Place,
Marylebone,
London,
W1H 5NN

0872 148 3288
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMark O'Donnell09/04/2010
A lovely pub offering a respite from the hectic nature of nearby Edgware Road, The Larrik serves up a small but very respectable food menu and buzzes with a lively air.

The Venue
Even though The Larrik is a couple of minutes walk away from the shisha-specialists on the frenzied stretch that is Edgware Road, it’s a million miles away in terms of its look and feel. Here, you’ll find an old pub that’s been tastefully spruced up, so it has original features like the lodge-esque wooden panelling in one corner of the L-shaped space, whilst also sporting huge potted leafy plants and yawning windows that have benefited from a bit of latter day TLC.

Of particular note are the odd portraits and photos on the wall – Albert Einstein, The Grateful Dead and Chairman Mao are all present, and that’s got to be the first time they’ve all been in the same room together. Sporting events are also shown.

The Atmosphere
It might be on a sleepy backstreet but the place is roaringly popular and, after work during the week, there’s hardly a spare seat in the house. Groups of friends reserve long tables and pew-style chairs, with lots of laughter and raised voices flowing as the evening progresses. Elsewhere, a toddler is helped to make some tentative steps across the room with the help of his mum, and it appears the crowd is very much metrosexual. It should also be noted that even at busy times, staff maintain their cool and do everything in their power to make your visit a pleasurable one.

The Food
The menu here is short and to the point but it very much a work in progress so expect it to be improved as time goes by. During the week food is served 12pm-3pm and 6pm-10pm, whilst weekends are more of an all-day affair.

Two of the stand-out dishes are the ribeye steak and the fish pie. Both are served in plentiful portions, to the point that smaller appetites may struggle to finish them but that’s not a bad thing. The steak (£16.00) comes with a side bowl of crisp, golden fries and a little pot of Bearnaise that has a tart and aniseed-infused aftertaste. The steak is smoky and charred on the outside, pink and supple inside and is pre-sliced by the chef. It sits on a pointless bed of lettuce but the meat is of an excellent quality and compares favourably with previous experiences at decent restaurants or gastropubs, which it should as prices are pitched at a level to demand this.

Alternatively, the fish pie (£11.50) is served in an oval bowl and, as a result, it is piping hot when you dig through the fluffy mash. Salmon and haddock are in plentiful amounts underneath and a perfectly poached egg sits on top and provides a visual feast when the yolk is broken and oozes out. A simply dressed bowl of lettuce leaves is also part of the deal.

Out of the three desserts, not including a selection of cheese, there's a tempting rhubarb and custard (£5.50). This arrives in a glass, with a vanilla-pod flecked posh custard at the bottom and a rich, syrupy stack of sliced rhubarb on top. Due to the intensity of the rhubarb a good proportion of the custard is required to counterbalance, and it is a very rich dessert that you’ll quite happily share between two.

The Drink
The sight of Doom Bar on draught is enough to peak the interest of ale aficionados, whilst the wine list is one that’s got plenty to offer whatever your budget. A good tip from the red list is the Devlin’s Mount Shiraz from Australia. The jammy fruit and hints of spice make it well worth the £19 a bottle asking price.

The Last Word
With its friendly staff, decent food and drink, and lively, animated atmosphere, it’s not hard to see why this pub is so popular. Great to have as your local if you live nearby and well worth making a beeline for if you’re passing through the area.
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