Streatham may not be the first place that pops into your head when planning a gastronomic night out but this independent pub looks set to change that perception.

The Venue
Located a couple of minute’s walk from Streatham train station, the location of the Manor Arms may be off-putting for some. However, if you get as far as the outside of the pub you’ll soon be convinced that you made the right choice. The huge, almost sprawling building stands out like a beacon, spanning an entire corner with a pleasant mint green exterior, large windows and a simple, sophisticated signage. Inside, the decor is neutral but not dull, with a maze-like quality created by the many pillars and dividing walls that fill the space. Still, it’s kept airy by its sheer size, with a pub area to one side with sofas and a more lounge-like feel, and a dining area on the other, made up of simple wooden tables and chairs. The huge open kitchen is definitely a centrepiece to the space and really shows off what this place is all about – fantastic food.

The Atmosphere
Anyone who knew the Manor Arms before it changed hands will be astounded at what it’s like now. The atmosphere is laid back and relaxing with an emphasis on friendly, warm service, creating a space where locals – and indeed those from further afield – would actually want to visit. And visit they do, with a mix of young and old, families and couples, checking out what this place has to offer. Perhaps the most impressive thing is it has an appeal that will make it more than just a pub for locals and should tempt in people from Clapham, Balham and the surrounding areas – and even further afield. Who knew somewhere in Streatham would ever have that kind of appeal?

The Food
This is where the Manor Arms earns its five stars. With a chef that used to work in restaurants like Pont de la Tour and Bob Bob Ricard, the quality of the menu is the equal of some of London’s better restaurants, which is frankly astounding for a pub in Streatham. A starter of mixed beets, goat’s curd and pickled walnuts (£6.50) is an exercise in simple flavours. The beetroot is fresh and not vinegary, allowing its earthy flavour to shine. It works particularly well with the light but creamy goat’s curd, whilst the pickled walnuts add texture and another dimension of flavour to the dish. Alternatively, the seared squid (£7) is beautiful and made up of large, meaty pieces of perfectly fresh squid, which are full of garlic and chilli flavour. The only small criticism would be that it just borders on overcooked with a slight chewiness, although that’s not enough to detract from the bold flavours and quality ingredients on display.

For mains, the leek and mushroom pie is so perfect it (£9.50) looks like something out of a cookery book. A large, round pie with a beautifully golden pastry top smells sublime and as you crack through the pastry – which flakes perfectly – you’re met with a creamy, hearty filling. This is pie with style. The leek and earthy mushrooms work together in the creamy sauce and it’s all pitched right for a proper pub dish with a restaurant edge. The accompanying carrots are presented on a side plate with a coriander garnish showing how much they care – and think about – flavour combinations here. However, that pales in comparison to the real highlight – the grilled seabass (£14.50). The generous pieces of fresh, perfectly cooked meaty fillets work incredibly well with the samphire and dill but it’s the freshness of the fennel that really brings it all together, working with the stronger flavour of the capers to make every mouthful one to savour. The light combination of flavours is so perfect, you’ll have to remind yourself that you’re in a pub in Streatham, not in a fancy restaurant up town.

Finally come the puddings. The rather strange sounding Denham Estate Cox and Bramley apple jelly (£5.50) is simply incredible. The jelly perfectly captures the flavours of the apple so that every mouthful explodes with flavour and this is tempered by the light whipped cream and sweet, delicate shortbread. It’s jelly like you’ve never had jelly before. Alternatively, a British cheese board (£8) is well thought out with cheese like Keen’s cheddar, Innes Log and Colston Basset (both Neil’s Yard) served with oatcakes, celery and seedless red grapes. As with many of the dishes, the locally sourced, fresh ingredients make this dish.

The Drink
There’s an above-average wine list at the Manor Arms where they really try to tell a story with their menu, having carefully chosen their selection, concentrating on small growers. They also have some unusual Lebanese options, selected for their quality. It’s clearly a well thought out list, and it's reasonably priced at £17.50-£48 a bottle (£24.50-£65 for their sparkling varieties) with carafes also available. If wine doesn’t take your fancy then they also have a strong draught selection that includes Estrella Damm, Heineken, Birra Moretti, Amstel, Guinness and Hogan’s cider. In addition, they have a great choice of real ale, from locally brewed Wandle’s to Broadside, Doombar and Purity Pure Gold. Finally, the drink selection is rounded up by cocktails (£6.50-£8) that include a mixture of classics and after-dinner drinks.

The Last Word
The Manor Arms has successfully put Streatham on the gastronomic map. This is a place that cares about what it offers its customers and it’s definitely worth making a special trip to visit, rivalling some of the top spots in nearby, far more competitive, Clapham.

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