The Mercer

Our rating 

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Venue Image
34 Threadneedle Street,
City,
London,
EC2R 8AY

0872 148 6579
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byDeborah Pearson13/02/2008
The perfect place to be wined and dined.

The Venue
Near Bank Station on Threadneedle Street, The Mercer is perfectly situated for a very upscale business lunch in the heart of the city. The vast, wood-panelled room is converted into an expansive and upmarket bar in the evening, so if you have an important client or lover to impress, you can do it over a lengthy lunch or a casual glass of bordeaux after work.

The Atmosphere
For better or for worse, like most top notch restaurants, The Mercer gives off a highly professional atmosphere best summed up by the word austere. Definitely not romantic or cosy, the decor of this restaurant is impressive. Crystal glasses sparkle, white tablecloths gleam, and the service is impeccable and fastidious. Your glass of sparkling water will not sit over ten seconds without being refilled, if it is raining outside The Mercer will provide you with an umbrella (literally) - yet the staff are friendly enough that they never seem pretentious or aloof.

The Food
The Mercer's food is nearly on a level with a Michelin starred restaurant with prices to match. Starters are around £9 and mains around £18. For those with the money, there is no better way to spend it.

For that hour between meetings, a quick lunch costs £24 for three courses, but unfortunately starts with the most disappointing dish on the menu – a chestnut and parsnip soup that is inventive, with a very interest aroma of chestnut, but far too salty. A la carte, the lemon and rosemary cured Scottish smoked salmon is a better choice for a starter, with fresh salmon, undercut by the fresh radishes, dill, and the surprising touch of rosemary, which, though unexpected, delights the palate and truly completes this dish.

For a main course, the whole roast leg or partridge is tender and succulent, topped with crispy parsnip chips and complemented by creamed brussel sprouts. Don’t be fooled by the brussel sprouts: creamed, they’re closer to tangy mashed potatoes than the vegetable you dreaded eating at your grandma’s as a child. Of course, as with any truly great kitchen, the sauce for this dish is the best part of all, a full bodied salsify and vermouth sauce that will make your co-diners mouths water with envy. The sea bass with braised lentils is cripsy and tender in all the right places, a definite contender if you are a fish lover. The lentils themselves transform your preconceptions of the grain, mixed with the occasional and careful touch of carrot, taste of garlic and seabass, and not overcooked as lentils so often are.

Desserts also do not disappoint. The dark chocolate tart comes with Bailey's ice cream with a perfectly creamy consistency, and the tart itself is rich without being too sweet. This dish takes its place among the best chocolate and ice cream desserts in London. The cheese selection is very satisfying with a glass of good wine, being of a British variety which consists of Colston Bassett Stilton, Tunworth (a soft cheese) and Keen's mature cheddar, but they are no substitute for the exceptional and expertly made desserts. Order cheese on the side, to be sure not to miss out on the ice cream.

The Drink
Since the Mercer operates a bar in the evenings, their drink selection far exceeds any expectations for a restaurant. The wine list is especially excellent. The Chateau Senaillac Bordeaux Superieure for £25 is easy drinking yet full bodied. The wine list is extensive and relatively affordable, leaving even an experienced sommelier with no cause for complaint.

The Last Word
The Mercer may not have the comforting atmosphere of your favourite local, but as far as business lunches or a special dinner go, this restaurant is sure to impress. With an innovative menu, impeccable service and a good location, The Mercer asks that you expect the best which is exactly what they deliver.
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