On a strip that boasts more bars and restaurants per foot than most, The Merchant manages to find a niche all of its own by offering a home from home with a warm welcome and a tasty menu.

The Venue
Battersea Rise has long been the destination of choice for the well-spoken young professionals of South West London. The venues come and go in this hotbed of real estate and there is always something new and different but, whatever the weather, this bar and restaurant is a popular and lively enclave.

The Merchant is a double fronted and airy venue, run for many years as Dixie’s and while the name and decor have changed, the friendly and casual ambience remains the same. Clapham Junction train station is a good ten-minute walk away but on most weekend evenings you only have to follow the general flow of pedestrians to be heading in the right direction. The one downside to The Merchant’s top of the hill location is that revellers may be enticed into one of the other bars before making the short walk up.

However there are plenty of tables here and if a seat is what you’re after, then you’re usually in luck. The large eye-catching bar demands your attention as soon as you arrive, with its impressive display. It is spacious and there are a few tall round tables and high stools on which to perch, affording a good view of the lower area which is mostly used for dining and game playing (before you ask – of the Scrabble and Trivial Pursuit variety).

The wooden furniture is a mix and match assortment, with a few booths and piles of assorted board games on high shelves which are strangely tempting on a rainy winter evening. In summer there is quite a different vibe with the large glass French windows opened right up onto the street contributing to a holiday-like atmosphere.

The Atmosphere
Like most of the places in this area, The Merchant tends not to fill up until around 9pm when locals have had a chance to get home from the city, change and head back out. They are an affable and attractive late-twenty and thirtysomething crowd dressed down to enjoy a natter and a drink with pals, rather than a night on the pull. There is a noticeably higher percentage of men than women, which is unusual in Battersea, but this is probably due to the unassuming surroundings and the menu which owes more to a traditional pub than a trendy bar. On the other hand it may be the young and nubile bar staff are incredibly welcoming and attentive.

The Food
Do the good people of SW11 ever eat in? The vast majority of eateries in the area lay on daily breakfast, lunch and dinner and are busy most evenings, and The Merchant is no exception. There is a vegetarian fry-up for breakfast as well as the usual and the main menu has a wholesome selection to suit most tastes although the emphasis is most definitely on comfort food – fish fingers appear in both the sandwich section and as a small sharing plate (both £5).

A slightly more sophisticated starter is the potted haddock and parmesan, or the chorizo flat bread, while the generous portion of onion rings served with a blue cheese dip is enough for two to share (£5-£6).

One glance at the main courses and it’s not hard to see why The Merchant is favoured by men. Steak, kidney and bacon pie, macaroni cheese, roast lamb and white bean chilli, cod and beef burgers and rump steak (£6.75-£9) are great value while the deliciously spicy pumpkin and bean chilli with rice is a marginally better bet for those on a diet, although no less satisfying.

Despite the large portions, if you can make room for a dessert (£4) then you should. The ice-creams are something special and they don’t make you choose between the chocolate, vanilla, toffee apple or toffee chip either! Also worth the calories are the rhubarb crumble and the apple, pear and blackberry mess – allowable as one of your five a day, surely?

The Drink
The visual feast of The Merchant’s bar is almost overwhelming. Everything is on display including all three colours of wine on tap. A sign alerting you to the availability of flavoured vodka shots is a surprising addition for what from the outside appears to be a fairly ordinary pub.

However, this is more of a beer drinker’s place and the selection on tap includes Heineken, Murphy’s, Simmonds, Budvar, Kolner and Sam Brook’s Junction, while the bottled beers are predominantly Belgian – Vedett and Duvel amongst others.

The Last Word
While not the most glamorous venue on Battersea Rise, The Merchant’s strengths lie in the laid back nature of both the staff and those who frequent it. For an unpretentious and enjoyable evening accompanied by hearty food, it’s worth the extra effort to the top of the hill.

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