648 Kings Road,
Fulham,
London,
SW6 2DU
0872 148 2743
The ViewLondon Review
What makes a great pub? You could do worse than to ask Stephen Breen. He's run pubs in Amsterdam, Brussels, Dublin and – for aught I know – every other city in Europe. Now, at long last, he's turned his talents to the only one that really matters.
Previous successes were Irish pubs with décor and gimmicks to match; the Morrison lacks any explicit references to the Emerald Isle, but its ethos is every inch Irish; an ethos assisted by three Irish barmen who keep the craic lively.
Yet the Morrison's charm isn't wholly reliant on the blarney of its staff. It's also a great building, occupying the final corner of the King's Road before it becomes the New King's Road, just a hop, step and jump from Fulham Broadway Tube. Wide windows, original fireplaces and a moulded plaster ceiling provide focus points for wandering eyes – so no need to worry if your companion doesn't bear extended scrutiny.
On inheriting the property in May 2003, the team expelled an uninspiring gothic interior and highlighted period features with warm contemporary tones – dark coffee brown, burgundy and cream. They bought interior pub dividers which establish two separate areas – saloon and lounge – and a pair of beyond fabulous Art Deco style armchairs.
The effect is to divide the space into several welcoming, but distinctive, seating areas – avoiding the trap so many bars fall into, of offering twenty identical tables for a public divided into big and small groups, out on dates, office drinks and girls' nights out.
There's space for all of the above at the Morrison; and a modest but cheerful beer garden, with outdoor bar for busy nights. And if you want to use any area for a party, you're welcome.
Moreover, the management arrange public parties at least once a month – beach parties, hallowe'en parties, parties of every kind. And I bet they're good parties, too. An Irish welcome but no celtic phrases on the wall – that's got to be good news.
The Morrison's menu is standard posh pub fayre – fishcakes, salads, sausages and mash, burgers, steak – at reasonable prices below the £10 mark. The burgers are large, hearty and taste of real meat, though lacking any special flavoursome touches; whilst the accompanying fries are similarly plentiful, and faultlessly cooked.
We also tried the salmon fishcakes, which were a little disappointing: the leek and salmon filling was pleasantly stodgy, but could have been seasoned a little more generously, and the thick coating dominated any other taste. However we highly recommend their potato wedges, which are really more like potato shavings if you ask me. They're a bit floppy to dip, but taste phenomenally good if you can manage it.
All in all, one fantastic pub!
The Morrison Bar and Lounge has been reviewed by 6 users