The North Star is the archetypal gastropub, making an occasion out of a visit to the pub in an area that has been crying out for it.

The Venue
The North Star is located at the Islington end of the New North Road and is a relatively short walk from the Old Street roundabout. The pub isn’t far from Shoreditch Park and should act as a reliable beacon to attract people from the confines of Hoxton.

The interior has a spacious feel, the tables are spread out across the floor with obvious care and attention alongside the presence of the odd sofa; each small seating area acts like its own private island. It’s good for privacy and in a pub where relaxation seems to be a priority for people it keeps the noise levels low. The reds of the walls are like a fine wine accompanying your stay here, adding to the atmosphere. The bar area is a simple set up with care given to avoid it becoming too basic.

The dining area is really just an extension of the bar. The tables seem to have multiplied and the quaint framed pictures are more glaring but the decor doesn’t change. The chairs are comfortable and encouraging, unlike the harder wooden alternatives that often leave you uncomfortable by your second course. Although there isn’t much here in the way of originality, with even the kitsch French movie posters being pushed into the darkness of the bathroom, the pub is inoffensive to the point where you feel at home.

The Atmosphere
The North Star has a shining brightness about it in terms of those it attracts. With The City and Islington located nearby, the area is a hive of city workers and the well to do. The crowd in the pub reflect the area and it’s largely a quiet one. The restaurant is topped up with couples for the most part and the bar is home to small groups.

The weekend sees a change in tact as the pub fills with drinkers and diners are no longer the dominant force they are in the week. The staff are friendly and willing to talk and are all smiles along with their service that helps endear the pub to you.

The Food
The menu is a short and sweet mixture of traditional meals and haute cuisine presentation with fresh ingredients inspiring new dishes every day. The starters are reasonably priced at around £6 and range from soups to pheasant and black pudding terrine. The snails in the shell however are highly recommended. They come served in swirling beige shells on a bed of juicy kale. The snails themselves have a rich texture and retain a firm freshness that is a pleasure to bite into. They are cooked with garlic butter but the sauce only adds to the snails’ own flavour, accompanying rather than overpowering the origin.

The main meals are served with flair and imagination and even the hearty pub type fare has personal touches that ups the quality and occasion of the meal. Prices range between £12-£19. Most of the meals involve locally sourced, good quality meat and fish. The aged rib eye steak is somewhat of a signature dish and is well worth its position at the top of the price list. The large cut of meat is coated in a rough peppercorn sauce that brings out the flavour of the meat as the juices run together. The crisp outer side of the steak is still succulent while the inside retains a fleshy, light texture. If you like your meat rare it may be best to specify precisely what you want as the only disappointment is the lack of a clear pink to the cut. Continuing on the meatier side of the menu the braised rabbit served with wild spinach, parsnip croquette and cider and calvados sauce is excellent. The cider and calvados sauce is a little too tangy but still manages to complement the meal well. A fork full of rabbit, spinach and parsnip mash is more than satisfying such is the rich heartiness of the food. For the gastro-vegetarians a risotto with wild rocket and blue cheese is on offer or a baby pea, red onion and potato pie.

The desserts list is also short but refined. There is the perfect crack of the creme brulee that becomes a prelude to its sweet, creamy fluffiness. Alternatively, the chocolate brownie has all the merits of most average chocolate brownies but with cherry ice cream as a team mate, the dish takes on a black forest type appeal as the ice cream mixes with the strong chocolate taste to create a real original flavour. There is also a cheese board on the menu.

The Drink
The wine list at the North Star is a mixture of old and new world wines. As the price goes up the Southern Hemisphere wines dominate the list. The house red is the Borgo Selere and it is as good a house wine as you’ll find. The plum, cherry flavours are subtle and simple yet rich and refined. If you prefer beer then draught lagers include San Miguel, Stella and Staropramen and there is a further range of bottled beers.

The Last Word
The North Star comes across like many other gastropubs of the same ilk but once you sit down to eat the character flows and - as they themselves claim - it’s a really nice boozer.

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