This smallish Nicholson’s pub at the City end of Fleet Street is less well known than the neighbouring Olde Cheshire Cheese and the Punch Tavern, but it has a better beer choice and a more relaxed atmosphere than either of these more famous names.

The Venue
Pubco Mitchells and Butlers largely favours big landmark pubs for its Nicholson’s chain, but The Old Bell Tavern is one of the smaller ones, with the more intimate feel of a neighbourhood local despite its busy surroundings. There’s been a pub on this site for over 300 years and the original building was set back from the street in its own courtyard: you can still notice the join between the front section with its flagstone floor, almost like an extended porch, and the section behind that folds around the bar, with floorboards and a cosier ambience. A few remnants of old partitioning can be spotted, though we suspect the building has been much altered since Christopher Wren’s stonemasons lodged in it while working on the great architect’s City churches.

The Atmosphere
A mixed crowd of drinkers reflects this area on the edge of the City, although The Old Bell Tavern is notably less boisterous than some of the neighbouring pubs, and it is well-lit with traditional furnishings and some character.

The Food
The Old Bell Tavern offers a Nicholson’s menu that’s slightly shorter and slightly cheaper than those at some of its stablemates deeper into the City. A full cooked breakfast is £5.95 with both standard and vegetarian options and main courses might include salmon puff pastry (£10.45), aged rib-eye steak (£13.95), roast Shropshire chicken (£8.95), vege or meat sausages and mash (£6.45) or roasted vegetable tart (£7.95). During the day there’s sandwiches (£6-£7 including chips or salad) and lunches like meatballs in Thornbridge Jaipur IPA (£6.50).

The Drink
Up to seven cask beers are usually served including the regular trio of Fuller’s London Pride, Sharp’s Doom Bar and St Austell Tribute and a changing selection from Nicholson’s seasonal guest ale list which stretches to microbrewers like Acorn, Downton, Moor, Oakleaf, RCH, Roosters, Stonehenge and White Horse, at around £3.30 a pint. A collection of pump clips is evidence of the interest taken. An eighth pump dispenses real cider, and a couple of Czech lagers are in the fridge. Many of the 25 mainly new world wines are available by the glass (small glass from £2.90). There are some specialist ciders and a few cocktails too.

The Last Word
Nicholson’s pubs have become a reliable source of decent beer in pleasant surroundings, but The Old Bell Tavern puts in a bit more effort than most, making it a bolthole worth knowing about for a relaxed pint when in the area.

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