The Old Crown is an excellent gastropub in central London offering class, charisma and cooking beyond compare.

The Venue
Located in a tourist hotspot at the intersection of Museum Street and New Oxford Street (and virtually opposite the British Museum), The Old Crown nevertheless comes across as tasteful and understated – there is no obvious sign to indicate its whereabouts, just a black marble and glass exterior and a few wooden tables on the street (confusingly, its namesake The Crown is just a few yards down the road).

The small main dining area is on the first of three floors (each holding around 25 diners), and it carries on the colour scheme with black wallpaper and wooden tables, along with the occasional mood-lightening splash of yellow and red. The walls are curved artfully into comfortable alcoves of brown leather separated by black pillars, and decoration comes in the form of chandeliers, mirrors and stone-cut artifacts – the bar on the right side of the room is similarly decked out with carved wooden shelves holding every conceivable type of spirit, and what appear to be brass organ pipes either side of a concealed chimney. The sparing use of gilt frames and mullioned patterns lends an air of class which works whatever the time of day.

Up the rustic staircase lies a second dining room, reserved for overspill from downstairs as well as private functions or meetings, with exposed brick walls, leather chaises-longues and red velvet curtains making for a charmingly intimate setting. And one storey up is the versatile function room, complete with a fully stocked wooden bar, overhead projector and impressive views of central London.

The Atmosphere
The Old Crown attracts all sorts, from affluent diners to curious theatre-goers, as well as an array of artists and comedians who attend the venue's weekly comedy and poetry nights. As the weekend draws nearer the second floor space is devoted to gatherings and private parties for up to 60 people. The dining and drinking experience is invariably delightful, with a smooth soundtrack and attentive staff all contributing to a great meal or night out.

The Food
In a word: sensational. The menu isn't hugely adventurous – burgers, steaks and various other permutations of meat and garnish are the norm for around £7-£9, with the chicken, mash and leek sauce particularly recommended – but what it sets out to do, it does extremely well, and the occasional surprise such as king prawn and chili pasta (£7.95) is pulled off with aplomb. Starters and desserts are relatively pricey (£4-£6) but the portions are substantial and really get the tastebuds going.

The Drink
For such an intimate venue, The Old Crown has an dazzling selection of alcohol to choose from. The house wines are a good place to start, especially the Embleme d'Argent Merlot which starts at £3.50 a glass. They also stock vintage pinots, riojas, rieslings and roses, which are usually available by the bottle for £15-£25. Draught and bottled beers also retail at around £3.50, with brands like Staropramen and Cusquena, as well as guest ales, lending variety. House spirits are £3 a pop, but the more ambitious among you can take your pick from a seemingly never-ending roster of gins, cognacs, rums and whiskies, available above the main bar.

The Last Word
With excellent service, a sumptuous menu and enough booze to fell a rhinoceros, The Old Crown takes a prime location and delivers on its undoubted potential.

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