One of a growing number of strong craft beer venues around Clerkenwell, Farringdon and Smithfield, the Old Red Cow is a sister ‘local ale house’ to the delightful Dean Swift in Bermondsey, but hasn’t yet quite pulled off the same comfy feel.

The Venue
At the east end of Long Lane right opposite the southeast corner of Smithfield Market and a few metres from Barbican Tube, the Old Red Cow is a genuine old market pub dating from the 1850s that’s been through a variety of brewery hands, and once boasted showbiz connections. Its recent fortunes have been mixed but its latest reinvention as a specialist beer free house looks more promising. It has bars on two floors: downstairs is relatively small and cramped with tall stools and tables, while upstairs is a bit more spacious with conventional tables and padded banquettes. The attractive decor involves much warm wood interspersed with German beer posters, quirky wallpaper and elaborately framed mirrors which give more depth to the space. Unlike some pubs in the area it’s open through the weekend.

The Atmosphere
The pub now attracts a mixed crowd from local workers and residents to hip young beer drinkers and the occasional real ale ticker; the good food is also a draw and on Saturdays the performance heritage is kept alive with a jazz night. Staff are young and friendly but perhaps not always so well versed in the beer offerings as the customers.

The Food
As you might expect from a pub opposite London’s main wholesale meat market, a hearty carnivorous streak runs through a menu foregrounding British ingredients, from the extensive list of ‘English bar snacks’ like ox tongue fritters (£3.50) and mini suckling pig pie (£3) to the shorter choice of mains like Berkshire pork belly (£11) and aged steaks (£16.90). There’s a decent handful of fish, vegetarian, cheese and salad options too.

The Drink
While not quite aspiring to the encyclopaedic choice offered by venues like the Craft Beer Co about 10 minutes’ walk away, the pub should please even the hardcore beer enthusiast with a varied range of local and international specialist beer. Four cask pumps (in the downstairs bar only) dispense the products of local brewers like Redemption, Sambrook’s and Dark Star, while 10 keg taps include quality imported lagers and wheat beers – a Belgian house pils, Austrian Stiegl, Bavarian Schremser Roggen and Maisels Weisse – and British craft kegs from Camden Town, BrewDog and Harviestoun. Over 30 bottles particularly focus on US and Belgian classics including several Trappist ales, and there are some big bottles for sharing. Guinness and Thatcher’s cider are also on draught. Prices aren’t bargain basement – some of the craft kegs go north of £6 a pint – but they’re not exorbitant either. Other drinks aren’t forgotten and there’s a well chosen if modest wine list but beer largely rules here.

The Last Word
While it lacks some of the charm of the Dean, the Old Red Cow should wear in well as a smart, modern beer bar offering a great range without overwhelming less beer-savvy drinkers with choice.

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