Hackney is not somewhere that instantly jumps to mind when talking of gentrified, but if The Old Ship is anything to go by, E8 has some sneaky little treasures in its midst.

The Venue
Mare Street is an area dominated by takeaways and low end boozers but there are a few venues that fly the flag for a better quality venue, and this swish gastropub and boutique hotel is very much in that category.

As you make your way to this urban take on a tavern, you already get a feel for the traditional meets contemporary concept. Hare and weasel wallpaper in orange and cerise loudly announces you are entering somewhere stylised. The dining room holds a handful of tables, each comfortably large enough for dining, and a yellow brick fireplace offers a reminder of the rustic side.

Roughly equal in size to the dining room is the bar. Here, cream Chesterfield sofas are teamed with huge faux gilt mirrors and a well disguised television, continuing the comfortable yet chic idea. You can approach this side of the pub from a passage, physically only just around the corner, but it feels a million miles away from the main road. This holds some light outdoor furniture and provides the only outdoor drinking space. Although, the alley is a bit of a wind tunnel making it less ideal for the cooler months of the year.

The Atmosphere
The overall approach is for you to relax and not have to lift a finger. That is, you’re told everything is being taken care of; you’re encouraged to be at ease. Ordering can be awkward, because the complicated menu needs so much explanation, as it’s broken down into categories and offers much info on origin. Such detailed descriptions needs more care than most casual diners or drinkers are likely to give.

That said, diners will not be disappointed. Service is prompt and perfectly timed. Dinners are intimate and peaceful or family focused. Drinks work equally well in a good natured, vociferous group or as a solitary ale sipper filling in the crossword in the corner.

The Food
Serving exclusively British fare, the menu changes seasonally. The tone remains the same, however; there’s always a Sunday roast (£9.50), and a daily fish or meat special. Foodies will savour the exceptional all British approach. This manifests itself in fruit and veg from Kent, fish caught off the Devon coast, and unusual cheeses from across the Isles.

On the menu’s Land category, asparagus and Woolsery goat’s cheese turnovers (£5.95 for starter size) provide a balanced blend of fresh and rich – the asparagus has bite, the filling is creamy and the pastry is buttery. They are presented with a flair usually reserved for higher-end establishments. Spring salad of roasted stuffed courgette with confit garlic and a lively plum tomato chutney, at the same price, expertly juxtaposes crisp herb leaves with the warm veg.

The talents of the chef’s palate continue through the Pig and Sea sections. The roast pork belly with mashed potato and apple blossom (£10.95) has a distinctive orchard apple kick, although the mash is a little too like puree for some tastes. At £12.95, the fillet of plaice with a monkfish tail scampi and garden pea white wine sauce doesn’t quite fall from the skin but, overall, the flavour from the monkfish scampi and crushed potatoes works well.

Afters will hurl you head first back to your youth. Bread and butter pudding and rhubarb crumble cost £5.95 each. The latter is reasonable, with stewed fruit, which is not too tart, but also not overly generous on the all important topping. A better choice is the none-too-British lime tart with vanilla cream.

There’s also the option of British tapas, £3.15 per portion, where you can try mini pies, fish cakes and Welsh rarebit in snack size bites.

The Drink
Naturally, British beers are central to the theme. Costing £3.30 upwards a pint, they include a selection from the Meantime Brewery in Greenwich, which include Union, Pilsner, a chocolate ale and London stout. English sparkling wine is also the order of the day. Created in Kent, and crisp with a grassy taste of the countryside, this award-winner can be experimented at £29.00 per bottle. Away from the UK, there is a good Ceps du Sud Viognier, which has an apricot and peach fragrance, at a very reasonable £17.50. The mixture of Old and New World reds start at £14.50.

Pursuing the British traditions with a twist, a thorough cocktail list takes on some of the classics, infusing them with indigenous ingredients and a sense of history. A Tom Collins and Singapore Sling are must have oldies, but the Charlie Chaplin is so called as he used to peform around the corner at the Hackney Empire theatre These blends cost from £4.95-£7.95.

The Last Word
The Old Ship is part of a turning of the tide in Hackney and it wouldn’t be a surprise if a spate of gastronomic excellence ensues. Altogether, a pleasure to visit, this pub sails through the elevated expectations of London Fields locals with flying colours.

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