Well Road,
Hampstead,
London,
NW3 1LJ
(020) 7794 7719
The ViewLondon Review
A reinvented pub (courtesy of the people behind The Oak in Notting Hill), The Old White Bear offers rustic chic in the middle of Hampstead village. It's a cosy, private spot where you will be spoilt with European wines and British cuisine.
The Venue
The Old White Bear is the embodiment of rustic chic at its finest. The decor not only follows trends but creates them: old doors are cut in half and are turned into wall benches, rusted patio chairs are moved indoors and there are vintage marble and tile
surfaces aplenty. If you add old Provencal cupboards, long wooden tables and benches, a couple of old fireplaces and exquisite antique radiators, you have a complete picture of a carefully designed space which still manages to emanate a welcoming,
traditional vibe.
The venue is not exactly prominently located as it’s hidden away on the uphill Well Road stretch, a location that keeps the clientele strictly local, for now. It occupies a U-shaped room, with a central bar and plenty of small and large tables on either side
for those having dinner or long catch-ups with friends. Lots of light is let in through the pretty bow windows while the walls are painted dark brown and spotlights are placed above artworks to keep everything in tune with the conservative interior. Vintage yet
immaculate, The Old White Bear seems to be like something out of the glossy pages of an interior magazine.
The Atmosphere
This gastropub could easily be featured in the pages of a luxury lifestyle magazine. However, there is none of the stiffness and self importance of over-designed venues and The Old White Bear is relaxed and enjoyable. Sultry chill-out music works as
an undertone to the loud chit-chat of the wealthy Hampstead residents, who come in to enjoy a pint or two rather than to show off. Casually dressed Heathians come in small groups with their dogs but don’t be put off if you are not rocking a corduroy blazer and a Labrador - The Old White Bear is the type of place where you and your friends become engrossed in conversation rather than people-watching. Intimate, despite the openness of the space, it's an ideal retreat and a place to enjoy
some me time.
The Food
Rustic chic decor goes hand in hand with seasonal modern British cuisine, so expect the best that the Isles have to offer. Small plates offer generous portions of quality herb marinated olives (£3), marinated white anchovies (£4), and an intriguing broad
bean puree with bruschetta, although you’ll have to assemble it yourself. Everything is served on voguish wooden boards.
For larger appetites, the full menu includes a handful of starters (£5.50-£8.50), as many mains (£12-£15.75) and a good selection of desserts (£4.50-£5.50). The menu changes regularly so you may or may not find the courgette and thyme soup, an
exceptionally honest concoction and one where you taste the ingredients and their freshness very clearly. Alternatively, the Cornish crab salad, with citrus and dill vinaigrette, is served with several toasted slices of bread and is full of flavour and very
tasty.
For mains, the roasted sea bass is served with Provencal herb, tomato, aubergine and pepper stew. The fish is tender and perfectly cooked but the stew steals the show with its intense slow-cooked taste. The wood-roasted squash and ricotta penne is
light and delicate, and its sweetness is further enhanced by tangy sundried tomatoes. Roast corn-fed chicken breast, chargrilled tuna and sirloin of beef tagliata are also on the menu.
Save some space for dessert: the hot chocolate truffles are not to be missed. The chocolate wafer biscuit balls coated with dusting sugar do not prepare you for the hot chocolate fondant in the middle and the cold solid chocolate centre. How they make
these is a mystery which deserves to be investigated during many, many sittings. Alternatives include a chocolate brownie (made from a family recipe), a creme brulee, apple crumble with creme Anglaise and a selection of quality ice creams and sorbets,
including deliciously refreshing mango and sweet orange.
The Drink
There are more than fifteen glasses (£3.85-£8) to choose from, including more unusual choices like English whites, Hungarian Furmint, reds from Portugal and Austria. This compact list is comprehensive and leaves a lot of scope for trying something
different. However, the list of wines by the bottles is where the magic happens. There are more than two dozen whites and even more reds to choose from, starting from a very reasonable £14.50 for two very respectable house selections - Le Lesc Cave de
Saint Mont or the Les Vignes de L’eglise Grenache-Merlot blend - before rising very slowly towards £42. Interestingly, the wines are exclusively old world, and if you care about the mileage your wine travels then this is a good thing.
Dessert (£15-£37.50) and sparkling wines (£23.50-65) are also available. Take your pick between a delicious Moscato D’Asti from Italy, Monastrell Dulce from Spain, Prosecco, French Champagne or the sparkling Nyetimber Cuvee Classic waving proudly
the English flag.
Just looking for a pint? Staropramen, Becks Vier, Abbots Ale, London Pride Stowford Press Cider (£3.50-£3.70) are the most interesting options on draught, whilst Budvar and Peroni are £3 per bottle.
The Last Word
The aesthetics and wine selection are the great selling points of The Old White Bear, whilst the food and atmosphere are a close second. Non judgmental and elegantly welcoming, The Old White Bear is an ideal option for a drink and bite to eat after an
afternoon on the Heath.
The Old White Bear has been reviewed by 3 users