10 Motcomb Street,
Belgravia,
London,
SW1X 8LA
(020) 7730 6074
The ViewLondon Review
Although you may wish the decor at The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room had a bit more personality, the gourmet experience it offers is second to none.
The Venue
Motcomb Street, an elegant enclave that seems created just for statesmen and their wives, might only be known to you if you’re a wealthy Belgravian – but even if you’re not, don’t let that fact deter you from a visit to The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room. The venue has shed many of the traditional restaurant trappings and has even adopted the first commandment of gastro pubs, “Thou shall not use a tablecloth.” The space spreads over three floors with the bar located in the bright and roomy ground floor. Here you can sip cocktails as well as order snacks.
The restaurant is on the busy first floor, decorated with inconspicuous wooden tables and leather chairs resting on vintage parquet floors. The lighting is dim but it’s more than bright enough to see clearly what’s on your plate. Despite the skylight and a few old photographs hanging from the wall, the decor is a bit bland. Neither bare nor elaborate, you may wish the space had more personality but at least there is nothing to distract your attention from the sophisticated food.
The Atmosphere
The tablecloths may be missing but don’t be fooled, The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room has restaurant-level service, attentive, quick and delightfully polite. If you’re used to dining in more relaxed places you may long for a less formal approach but the uniformed staff do exactly what they should – ensure you fully enjoy your food.
The clientele reflects the upmarket neighbourhood. Expect to be seated with 40 something couples and small groups of friends, who may have nothing at all to celebrate and just feel like dining out. Most men, dressed in suits, look like they’ve come straight from work and most ladies are elegant without being overdressed. However, The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room is not the stereotypically quiet restaurant where you hear only the clinking of cutlery and glasses over whispered conversations. On the contrary, the place is lively and filled with chatter yet you do not need to shout across the table.
The Food
The menu mixes British favourites with far more elaborate dishes and ordering something more sophisticated than you’re used to will pay off. The rabbit, wild mushroom and leek terrine (£8.50) served with spiced plum chutney is a good start. It’s slightly salty and the leeks are marginally understated but the combination does work well. The healthy portion of terrine is matched with very nice bread and a kicking plum sauce that complements the meat. Also available is the Royal Park venison carpaccio (£10) which is highly recommended. You will be served small round slices of venison that have been quickly seared on the outside, along with a few pieces of beetroot and sweet red jelly and copious drizzles of a very mild horseradish sauce. The dish is very light and has a great deal of sophistication. Eating it slowly is a good way to savour its many layers of flavour.
For those keen on salad, the globe artichoke, Ticklemore goat’s cheese, butternut squash and spelt salad (£10.50) also comes highly recommended. It is served in layers with hot boiled spelt at the bottom, covered with a tasty mix of warm butternut and caramelised red onion and topped off with fresh rocket and shaved goat’s cheese. The warm layers at the bottom are truly indulgent; spelt, onions and butternut have a very round, comforting and full flavour, well matched by the spicy rocket, vinegary artichokes and rich goat’s cheese. And if butternut squash is your thing, you can add also order it as a side dish, seasoned with sage (£4). The market fish of the day (£12 - £18) is also a popular choice, the fish itself served pan fried and obviously fresh. The rice arancini, by nature of the dish more than anything else, are slightly dull, although the cabbage and bacon bed lifts things up.
Hopefully, you will still have space for dessert as you wouldn’t want to miss out on something as tantalising as cocoa bean brulee with white chocolate mousse and milk chocolate doughnut (£7). Other options include the less indulgent apple and blackberry crumble tart (£7) and the vanilla poached pear with walnut cake and maple and walnut ice cream (£7). The latter is good with the pear and ice cream prepared to perfection, although the walnut cake does not truly stand out. All in all, though, the kitchen crafts truly amazing dishes and the best way to enjoy them is to try something new.
The Drink
The long wine list is another point of distinction for The Pantechicon Public House and Dining Room. If the food was not so amazing, coming here to sip a glass of wine would be recommended but passing by without having at least a light lunch would be a true crime. Wine here is mostly sold by the bottle, with more than fifty whites and possibly even more reds starting from under £20 and reaching more than £300 (£500 for the reds). By the glass there are four whites (£6.50 - £9), four reds (£6 – £8.50), one rose (£6.50) and Champagne and sparkling wine (£6 - £9.50). The Bourgogne Blanc (£8.50) is a good choice for a white wine if you’re ordering both meat and fish. Many different bottles of Champagne are also available at a wide range of prices starting at £50 and escalating to £660.
The Last Word
The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room definitely deserves a visit to try some of their elaborately created dishes.
The Pantechnicon Public House and Dining Room has been reviewed by 5 users