The Pear Tree

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Venue Image
14 Margravine Road,
Fulham,
London,
W6 8HJ

(020) 7381 1787

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byCat McGovern22/01/2010
Who'd have thought that a pub tucked away behind Charing Cross hospital would serve food to a standard that a top restaurant would be proud of, and at a fraction of the price. If you decide to head off the beaten track and discover this wonder, the chances are it’ll soon become your new favourite place.

The Venue
Hidden away from the main drag of Fulham Palace Road is a quaint little pub that is best described as a brilliant find. A short walk from Barons Court station, when you eventually find The Pear Tree, you feel a sense of achievement and an overwhelming feeling that you’ve stumbled upon something truly special. Nestled in a residential area, you’d be forgiven if you thought that you had gone the wrong way, but as soon as you see The Pear Tree’s welcoming sign, you know you’ve reached the right place.

The exterior restores your faith in the good old British boozer, as it has retained many of the features from its original construction. On the large windows, that give it that traditional pub feel, is an intricately painted pear tree, which makes you want to investigate further.

The first element that strikes you is how cosy the venue is and this is further emphasised by the two roaring fireplaces and low candle lit lighting. The Pear Tree is a bijous place but has plenty of places for you sit and relax. The majority of the fixtures inside are in their original state, which is a great thing to see. Also the menu blackboard, with dainty fairy lights placed upon it, looks great.

The front serves as more of a place to drink and perhaps sample some food, but the back, which has a piano, felt chaise longue and a large wooden table, is definitely a place to sit with a large group and indulge in a hearty meal.

The Atmosphere
The Pear Tree is a place to come and chill out with some stunningly prepared food so expect to be treated very well. It has a strong community and local feel and, although there’s been a few teething problems, the venue is a big hit with anyone who sets foot inside the door.

The Food
Although the menu may appear to be quite small, once you taste the dishes you’ll understand why. The chef used to work at a Michelin-star restaurant and wanted to take on a new venture by cooking up seasonal British food at affordable prices.

Starters consist of a vegetable soup, presented in beautiful kitsch crockery, and Portobello mushroom bruschetta, both at £3.50. The soup is quite dense, it has a touch of paprika, and is littered with lentils and kale; perfect for cold winter evenings. The soft Portobello mushrooms are cooked to perfection with all the flavours complementing each other beautifully. Add to this the juxtaposition of the strong stilton and the calming poached pears and you have an extraordinary dish.

Mains start at £7.50 for bubble and squeak (shredded pork and a fried egg) and go up to £10.50 for cushion of lamb with cannelloni beans and sauteed kale. The latter is a superb piece of meat which is more tender than better known cuts. The bitter flavour of kale is, for some, eaten only under protest as it can be a quite harsh yet unexciting vegetable, but in this dish it adds depth to the lamb and is a well thought-out addition. There are also two specials, one being a wild mushroom risotto and the other is an Aberdeen Angus burger with homemade chips. You can have either with a beer or a glass of wine for £8.25, which is a bargain to say the least. The burger is mighty and has a creamy mushroom sauce with it making it that little bit tastier. And the thick-wedge crispy chips are divine especially when dipped in either the mushroom sauce or tomato ketchup.

Desserts (all £3.50) have an English pudding feel to them. Highlights include a rustic rhubarb crumble and the most indulgent (and best) bread and butter pudding you will ever have the pleasure to sample. It is clearly homemade and the extra addition of chocolate and Baileys make it creamier and definitely more indulgent.

One of the great things about the dishes are the portion sizes. Normally in pubs there’s either too much or too little on the plate, but at The Pear Tree they are just right. They keep you nicely fulfilled and not stuffed at the seams. Also, they are seasoned so well that you seldom need the salt and pepper.

The Drink
There are a few beers on offer, with London Pride the cheapest (£3.15 a pint) and Stella weighing in at a more expensive £3.75 a pint. They also change the ale frequently to keep the regulars happy. The wine list is small but perfectly formed. The house, the Marques De Calado, is £2.70 for 125ml, £3.60 for 175ml and £14 the bottle. The Chilean Merlot (£3; £4; £15) goes wonderfully with the lamb as it is a rich, deep, uncomplicated wine. For fizzier tipples there’s a rose Prosecco and a normal Prosecco for £4.50 by the glass and £21 a bottle, and the Champagne is only £29 for a bottle, so everything is very reasonably priced.

The Last Word
The Pear Tree is one of those rare establishments that manages to cater for all needs. Whether it’s for food that compares favourably with the standards found in top restaurants, or for a quiet drink, you are bound to leave suitably impressed.
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