With traditional pub games, a huge selection of real ales on tap and a diverse Italian-influenced menu, this Hackney pub really is a mixed bag. But somehow it works…

The Venue
Situated on Amhurst Road in Hackney, a stone's throw from Hackney Downs station, this grand 19th century building is owned by Individual Pubs and it is very much a local's boozer. Ignoring the typical Hackney-style metal bars on the doors and '80s-style marble-effect toilets, on entering the venue you'll be taken back by how large and spacious it is and there's plenty of tables scattered across the venue if you're in a big group. The bar is huge and runs along the back wall, listing all the food and drinks on offer, and the walls around the venue are full of historical pictures and maps – the pub is very interested in its history and it encourages people to share their knowledge and photos (these are displayed). There's a pool table, bar billiards table and a decent selection of board games available at the bar.

The Atmosphere
The venue lacks a music licence, so it's a bit strange at first and does feel a little like a youth club, but, after a few strong ales, nobody seems to care. The pub attracts a mixed bag of people – everyone from true Hackney folk wanting a drink in their local and trendy twenty and thirtysomethings who are attracted to the pub's recent ‘cool’ status, alongside real ale enthusiasts who are in the pub for a specialist drink (the venue takes part in yearly beer and ale festivals). Staff are friendly and enthusiastic and, during the week, you get particularly good table service if you're having a meal.

The Food
The kitchen specialises in modern Mediterranean food with a strong Italian influence and staff seem passionate about the dishes they serve, offering specials every day. Even regular dishes are served with a twist. If you order fish and chips, for example, the dish is battered in Moravka beer. The main menu includes a spinach, sun-dried tomato and halloumi salad (£5.50), which makes a delicious starter or side dish. Well presented in a simple white bowl, the spinach is fresh, the halloumi perfectly grilled and ripe sun-dried tomatoes, subtle shavings of percorino cheese and sweet-tasting butternut squash provide the perfect complement. Equally good is the pork belly salad (£5.50). Served with sweet apricot pieces, sliced crunchy carrot, onions, chillis, lettuce and black pudding, it's almost oriental in style and works excellently as an alternative side dish.

Pizzas are served until slightly later and can be ordered to take away. They're huge and perfect for sharing. For something different, the caprino (£8.95) is a tasty pick. It has no tomato sauce as a base but far from tasting dry, the mozzarella base with goat’s cheese, caramelised onion and black onion truffle oil perfectly blend together to create a strong-tasting, yet scrumptious pizza.

If you're after a dessert, there are usually a couple on the specials board. The lemon mascarpone cheesecake (£3.50) is particularly tasty.

The Drink
The venue stands out for having 16 hand pumps on the bar – and a huge amount of real ale. Although all might not be in operation at once, the beers from micro-breweries around the country are forever changing. Regulars include Pegasus, Sparta, Jupiter and Nero from Cambridge's Milton Brewery. There's also decent cider available too. Bottles include favourites such as Crabbies Ginger Beer and Leffe, alongside more specialist drinks. The wine list is reasonable and you can expect to pay around £10 for a bottle of house wine. The Crianza Rioja (£12) is smooth and medium-bodied and goes with most dishes on the menu. The bar is well stocked with spirits, too.

The Last Word
This place is all about the specialist beers, and with delicious food and friendly staff, it's definitely one to keep in mind if you're in Hackney.

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