9 Phene Street,
Chelsea,
London,
SW3 5NY
(020) 7352 9898
The ViewLondon Review
The Phene – pronounced ‘Phee-nee’ – combines a modern pub with a deli on an otherwise sleepy residential street in Chelsea. Occupying a distinguished townhouse in a corner spot that was previously The Phene Arms, its biggest selling point is its suave outdoor area, a space that has more than a touch of moneyed Ibiza to it.
The Venue
Very much a neighbourhood pub for those lucky – and rich – enough to call SW3 their postcode, The Phene has plenty going on inside its grand white washed walls. The initial bar area leads through to a compact deli area, from here keep walking round in a loop – the ground floor has been designed to take you from one space to another in one continuous circuit - and you enter an airy conservatory space that feels more conducive to coffee and wi-fi sittings than boozy sessions with your mates. Upstairs on the first floor, a plush boutique-style room is resplendent in bold purple and gold colours, with dramatic light and mirror features, and a rail of Lily London women’s clothing, from the venue’s creative director, Lily Bourne. Outside, you will find the venue’s most impressive feature – the stylish outdoor area. Here, egg-shaped black iron chairs swing lazily next to gun-metal grey banquettes, a wealth of grassy foliage and a bulbous cascading water feature.
The Atmosphere
Local residents have already fallen for The Phene’s charms. On a balmy evening, the outdoor space is chocka with the sort of international crowd that call Chelsea home. Friends attending a birthday gathering bring cake with them, nothing unusual there, but then there’s a first – someone has gone to the trouble of bringing a homemade sushi platter. No basic butties here, thank you very much.
The Food
With the pub-deli combo you can graze during the day or sit for a more formal sitting. The deli has cheese and meats, fruit juices and coffee from renowned suppliers, whilst the main menu goes for the gastropub angle, with steaks, all-day breakfasts, fish and chips and sharing platters, all present and correct.
It kicks-off promisingly: starters of ham hock terrine salad (£7.50), and a warm goat’s cheese (£7) both hit the mark in terms of good quality ingredients and fine-tuned execution in the kitchen. Mains include a cooked-to-order sirloin (£18) served with crispy fries and a perky green peppercorn sauce, but the appearance of two curries on the menu are undoubtedly the most curious inclusions. The aloo mater paneer curry with cardoman rice (£10) needs rethinking. The paneer (cheese) is rubbery, the sauce timid in terms of spice and flavour and the rice overcooked, with little evidence of the use of cardoman aside from the odd seed. Best thing to do is stick to the more traditional gastropub dishes, you won’t go far wrong.
Puddings are all set at £6 and a delicate, skinny lemon tart served with a blackberry sauce is light, refreshing and full of flavour, meaning you don’t need to add any cream to enjoy it.
The Drink
London Pride (£3.80 a pint) and San Miguel (£4.20 a pint) are on draught, with more interesting options available in bottles, although prices aren’t particularly wallet-friendly – Old Speckled Hen is a whopping £5.15 a pop. Cider drinkers are particularly well looked after - bottles of Breton Cider (£4.75) are one of five choices. Wine is visibly the biggest seller amongst those in attendance and house wine starts at £15.50 a bottle. A good tip out of the reds is the Stellenbosch Good Hope Pinotage (£18 per bottle), a smooth yet spicy red that’s very good value for money.
The Last Word
Attempting to pack so much into a pub can sometimes dilute the experience, but The Phene, by combining a pub, deli, boutique first floor and cracking outdoor terrace has pretty much got the blend spot on.
The Phene has been reviewed by 19 users