Surrounded by tourist traps and lifeless pubs with sticky floors, The Phoenix is a rose amongst thorns. Cosy yet bustling, it’s perfect for an after work drink – but if it’s a slap up meal you’re after, be prepared to rack up quite a bill.

The Venue
On the corner of Palace Street, just a five minute walk from Victoria Station, is The Phoenix. On approaching The Phoenix it is immediately evident that it doesn’t have much in common with the dozen or so other pubs in the area. There aren’t large crowds spilling out onto the street – here, smokers politely congregate in the garden at the back. There’s no offensively loud music pumping out through the front door; there might be a football match on the TV but few people are paying close attention. If this is enough to entice you, the interior will continue to please. With light wooden floors, rustic chunky furniture and black and white floor tiles around the bar, you’ll feel like you’re in a farmhouse kitchen – a novelty for a pub in SW1. The decor is charming yet understated - white walls and tables mix with dark woods; ornate lampshades, ornaments and black and white photos are visible on the wall. Sit in an armchair by the roaring fireplace and you’ll think you’re in somebody’s country cottage, especially with finishing touches like the coat hooks on the wall and biscuit tins on the shelf.

There is a small dining area at the back, which is quieter than the rest of the pub without completely losing the lively atmosphere of the bar. The dining area leads out into the garden, but thanks to a small corridor in between, diners needn’t worry about drafts every time a smoker goes in or out.

The Atmosphere
In the evenings, The Phoenix can rarely be described as anything other than busy. Thanks to the TV company offices down the road, the typical customer is young, creative and well-dressed. There are plenty of large groups of people coming for a drink after work, and wrestling your way to the bar between 5pm and 9pm is a challenge. The service is good though – you’ll be served quickly once you’ve ordered and you can entertain yourself by watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen behind the bar.

It does get crowded, and if you’re looking for somewhere to have a romantic evening or a quiet chat with friends on a Friday night, don’t go to The Phoenix. If you want somewhere lively, full of character and with a good chance of sitting and talking to strangers by the end of the night, this is ideal.

The Food
The dinner menu, served between 6pm and 10pm, is certainly ambitious for a small pub, so straight away expectations are high. Unfortunately, the food is a bit of a let down and doesn’t meet the high standards that the rest of The Phoenix sets.

A starter of rainbow trout salad with green beans and poached egg will set you back a staggering £8.95, and frankly doesn’t contain much rainbow trout. The minimal amount of trout is colourful and beautifully presented, and the egg has a lovely peppery flavour, but it’s not overly exciting. The ham hock terrine with chicken liver pate platter is the most expensive starter at £9.95 and is again underwhelming. It’s served with a very tasty caper mayonnaise and tangy, toasted gherkins, but the terrine and pate are average.

The main courses continue the high-end pricing, with the only dish available for under a tenner being the baked cheese soufflé (£9.95). If you’re after something with a little more sustenance, the Scottish fillet of beef Wellington sounds tempting and costs £19.95. Unfortunately, whilst the pastry is light, flaky and cooked to perfection, the beef is overcooked and chewy, so much so that getting the knife through the meat is a real achievement. The mashed potato, though smooth and creamy, is soused in mustard and its sharpness is aggressively intense.

The pan-roasted lemon sole, at £16.95, is on the verge of being mushy, though again it is stunningly presented and comes served with a delicious lemon and parsley butter and crispy roast potatoes.

All five desserts are £5. The pear and almond tart is pleasant enough, and is served with vanilla pod ice cream. The chocolate fondant, recommended by the waiter, is not what you might expect. It has been cooked to the point where the gooey chocolate middle is non existent and you would be forgiven for thinking you’ve ordered the wrong dessert.

The service really is wonderful and the waiters are very attentive, but it just doesn’t make up for the poorly executed food.

The Drink
There is a large wine list and prices range from an affordable £13.90 for a bottle of very drinkable Lerane Terret 2008, to £28 for a bottle of Sancerre Les Tuilieres. Most wines are also available by the glass, small or large. As for beers, ciders and ales, on tap there is Carlsberg, Aspall, Bitburger, Guinness, Stella, Doom Bar, Becks Vier and Adnams. There’s also a huge range of bottles in the fridge and spirits on the shelf.

The Last Word
As a pub, The Phoenix is full of character and won’t disappoint if you’re after a quick drink or a fun night out. Unfortunately, the ambitious food is over priced and is cooked to varying degrees of success. Stick to a liquid night out, though, and you’ll have a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

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