Windsor Walk,
Denmark Hill,
London,
SE5 8BB
(020) 7703 8767
The ViewLondon Review
After a recent refurb, The Phoenix of Denmark Hill is every inch the majestic golden beast its name implies. A delightful gastropub, which rose from the ashes following the famous fire of Denmark Hill Station in 1980, The Phoenix is undoubtedly one of South East London’s shining culinary beacons, located just up the road from Camberwell Green and over the hill from East Dulwich.
The Venue
Glitz meets glamour meets everyday accessibility at this old waiting room by Denmark Hill station. Step inside and a polished, panelled wooden floor greets the foot, and exposed brick walls, garnished with an enormous gold gilt mirror and rock n roll screen prints, greet the eye. A ‘pub of the year’ placard sits behind bar, an old station clock from Leeds hangs overhead, and an enticing spiral staircase encased in fairy lights leads up to the mezzanine level.
The Atmosphere
There is the hubbub of chatter, perhaps due to the open plan bar/restaurant area, and jazz plays on the stereo, adding a touch of laidback chic. Low lit chandeliers light the room and the crowd is mixed – commuters come here for a pint before catching the train home and there are those who have come for some mid-week wining and dining.
The Food
Choose from the prix fixe, served Monday-Friday, with two courses at £10 and three courses at £15. The main menu includes four specials, which change regularly, and there’s a brunch menu if you’re here on a Saturday between 11am-4pm. The menu displays the date to ensure that personal touch, whilst meat and fish are supplied from London’s Smithfield and Billingsgate markets. If you’re going with the three-course job, try the delicate smoked salmon on toasted rye bread with beetroot creme fraiche (£5.75) – it's an enticing way to start. For mains, the slow cooked lamb shank shepherd's pie (£9) and asparagus, pea and mint risotto (£9.25) are recommended, but the delectable smoked haddock on bubble and squeak with poached egg and white wine sauce (£10.50) is an exquisitely flavoured, sizeable dish. For pudding, the mascarpone and amaretto cheesecake with fruit coulis (£4.75) makes for a sharp and tart creamy dessert. If you’re feeling dangerous try the boozy sloe gin Eton mess – adults only - for £5.25.
The Drink
Whether you’ve come to The Phoenix strictly for an after-work tipple or whether you’re going all the way, be sure to check out the extensive list, from the spirits 'Ho ho ho and a barrel of rum', vodkas, gins, whisky, bourbon and brandy ranging from £2.60 to £3.40 for a single. Draught beers range from £3.20-£4.25 a pint. Cask ale and cyder (note the authentic “y”) offers the usual Westons or Aspall options alongside specialist bottles from £3.65-£4.10. Wine is both reasonably priced and appetising – a bottle will set you back anything from £13.50 for chardonnay or shiraz to £20 for Gewurztraminer riesling or malbec. For those extra special bubbles, opt for prosecco, which at £19 bottle is quite a snip.
The Last Word
The Phoenix is a haven for post-work indulgence, a mid-week date, lazy brunch or a more glamorous weekend outing. Friendly staff, a cool and classy edge and, above all, excellent food at reasonable prices mark it out from the rest.
The Phoenix has been reviewed by 9 users