94 Middlesex Street,
Spitalfields,
London,
E1 7EZ
(020) 7377 6860
The ViewLondon Review
The ‘happiest place on earth’ is a refreshingly laid back alternative to the painfully trendy spots of nearby Shoreditch. A rock bar that isn’t trying to be edgy and cool, it’s a much-needed antidote to the pretension that infects the East End.
The Venue
This rock-themed bar isn’t edgy. It isn’t cool. And it’s not trying to be. Instead, The Pipeline is a laid back, friendly, fun bar that is just what the local office workers of The City and those fed up of ‘the scene’ in nearby Shoreditch are crying out for.
Situated in a sprawling building with windows spanning two external walls, allowing for plenty of light, they’ve certainly worked the space well. A horseshoe-shaped bar takes centre stage, with modern white stools nestling up against it. An impressive range of draught beer from gleaming silver pumps complements the range of spirit bottles glistening in the light on shelving behind, alongside a bright neon pink sign declaring ‘The Pipeline’. To the right of the room is a lounge area, complete with sofas in red, black and white, two pinball machines and the piece de resistance – the well stocked Wurlitzer jukebox.
Past some stools and high tables, behind a brick wall, resides the dining area with dark wooden tables and chairs. Black and white photos (original prints) of rock stars like Lemmy from Motorhead adorn the walls and the Ace of Spades lyrics are scrawled above you, adding interest. Two TVs appear to be rather redundant but the two blue pool tables with lines of well-kept cues offer entertainment.
The Atmosphere
The Pipeline is definitely a City bar, its close proximity to Liverpool Street and Aldgate ensures that; however, it does pull in its fair share of locals and its lack of dress code and laid back ambience, evident from the outset, invite a more eclectic crowd. It has the potential to be a thriving, bustling City bar as well as a welcome respite from the trendier, more pretentious bars of nearby Shoreditch.
The incredibly friendly staff do a great job of making everyone feel welcome and you may start to believe that this really is the happiest place on earth. Almost. It’s certainly a feel-good bar and you’ll be hard pushed not to leave with a smile on your face, especially after a few goes on the old school pinball machines.
The Food
The food is a pleasant surprise at The Pipeline. Given it’s a bar, and a rock-themed one at that, you’d have forgiven it for going down the bar snacks and tapas route. However, they’ve actually gone for a Scandinavian menu that impresses in terms of quality and choice. If you’re peckish, they do have a selection of chips, snacks, onion rings, kebabs and bruschetta (£3-£4.50), but it’s worth being daring and trying their main dishes.
Well described, the selection of unusual Scandinavian dishes impresses. The Wallenbergare (£11) is highly recommended. Made from the finest veal, it arrives as a simple burger patty with creamy, smooth homemade mash, fresh green peas, light gravy and sweet, jam-like lingonberries. Strangely, eating jam with mashed potatoes really does work - the sweetness of the lingonberries being understated, complementing the dish rather than overpowering it. The veal patty is tender, well cooked and has a rich flavour that isn’t too heavy.
Alternatively, the beef rydberg (£15) is an excellent choice. The finest fillet of beef is diced into tender, rich, meaty pieces with a raw egg yolk on top adding an incredible rich dimension of flavour. Diced, crispy sauteed potatoes are surprisingly light and aren’t overly greasy and the onions are crisp and add an interesting depth to the dish. Mustard creme brings it all together but doesn’t overpower the well-balanced flavours, instead providing a pleasant underlying tang. Delicious and highly recommended.
The Drink
There’s a great wine list on offer at The Pipeline with a good selection of whites, reds, roses and sparkling varieties (£14-£39.50; £22-£110 for sparkling bottles). The wines are well described on the menu and sectioned according to the country of origin, which makes your choice easier. Recommended is the Fairleigh Estate Pinot Noir (£24) from New Zealand with berry fruit notes and a subtle spicy aroma with well balanced tannins.
If beer is more your thing then they also offer a strong draught selection that includes Magners, Gaymers, Asahi, Guinness, Carling, Grolsch, Coors and Zatec with more available by the bottle. There’s also an interesting selection of flavoured vodkas.
The Last Word
Who needs the next big thing when you can head to the happiest place on earth, select a few tunes from the jukebox, play a round of pool and enjoy Scandinavian food with a beer before having a go on the pinball machine. A break from the norm.
The Pipeline has been reviewed by 11 users