As pubs up their game to compete in an increasingly tough marketplace venues like The Portman, where fine dining meets pints of beer, are doing a good job of appealing to all tastes.

The Venue
The Portman is located along one of Marylebone’s prettiest streets, resplendent with neat little rows of white marble buildings. Inside, you’ll find the main pub area with a centralised bar, allowing punters to queue from all four sides. A few tables sit around the outside of the space and its cosy and traditional, albeit with that shiny and new glisten to everything. Up a narrow staircase you’ll find the dining area awash in a sea of beiges and creams. A pretty golden flock wallpaper covers the walls, inlaid with little crowns, and a tan leather sofa covers the periphery of the room with tables pushed up against it. Covered in pristine white tablecloths they’re certainly in stark contrast to downstairs.

The Atmosphere
Popular with businessmen and women staying in the nearby hotels and the after work crowd, you can expect to see a lot of suits at The Portman, both in the pub and the restaurant. However, it’s not pretentious as the belly laughs and loud trickles of conversation will attest. The restaurant upstairs is a more subdued affair but still retains a vibrant air. The staff are particularly friendly and seem to know the menu well, offering recommendations and describing dishes accurately.

The Food
The pub and the restaurant of The Portman offer different menus. Downstairs you’ll find hearty dishes like pies, burgers and steaks, whilst upstairs there’s a more delicate flourish to the food. It’s also worth noting that their meat is delivered fresh from their own estate and everything is locally and responsibly sourced – a fact that could do with being highlighted on the menu as it’s worthy of mention. For starters, the restaurant offers a half dozen fresh, beautifully presented oysters (£9) with a pleasantly tangy cucumber and shallot vinegar. Alternatively, a panache of fresh, beautifully cooked red mullet (£7.50) arrives on an interesting Bloody Mary sauce with a deep tomato flavour that complements the fish well. Crisp watercress adds a peppery element and the perfectly cooked, plump scallops finish it off well. It’s just a shame they leave the roe on the scallops, which tastes too overpowering for the rest of the well balanced dish.

The vegetarian option for the main courses is a nice addition that’s worth trying. Light, perfectly seasoned pumpkin gnocchi (£10.95) comes with crisp pieces of sweetcorn that lift the sweetness of the pumpkin, balanced by tart parmesan shavings, crisp sage leaves and a rich pine nut dressing. If red meat is your thing then try the roast best end of lamb instead (£15.95). Beautifully tender and cooked to specification, the sweetness of the lamb is balanced by a pastry pithivier savoyarde filled with a creamy potato gratin. The sweet carrot puree and deep, flavoursome rosemary jus finishes it off perfectly. Accompanied by a side of creamy, buttery mashed potato (£2.50) it’s an excellent meal. If you have room for desserts then try the British favourite of a cream-laden Eton Mess filled with generous chunks of strawberry and sweet crumbly meringue. Otherwise, a chocolate fondant with a rich gooey centre is well balanced by a decadent pistachio ice cream. Priced at just a fiver it’s hard to resist even if you are already full to bursting.

The Drink
The pub offers a good choice of beer, including Murphy’s, Kronenbourg, Amstel, Sagres and Deuchers on draught. This is balanced by a short but diverse selection of cocktails for £7.95 a glass, including everything from a Bloody Mary to a Chocolate Martini. Upstairs it’s all about the wine with a long list of whites and reds that, although not described on the menu, are neatly divided by tasting notes. The ‘Because Life is Too Short’ selection is especially charmingly named. The Soleus organic Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile is particularly well priced at £25 for the delicate, easy to drink red with peppery notes that complement spicy food and red meats well.

The Last Word
The Portman proves that being a Jack of all trades isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Recommended.

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